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"GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer



This 3D printer makes a bit of a departure from my others in that it is designed to give the best accuracy I can achieve rather than concentrating on speed or size, though I did want to print at least as big as my Titan printer (290mm x 290mm x 250mm).  Like Titan it uses a box as the main frame but unlike Titan and my other printers does NOT use "pink string and ceiling wax".  It uses tried and tested 3D printer designs rather than my usual "way out" ideas.  I took advice from a friend who has spent a lot of time on developing high accuracy 3D printers.


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Slight adjustments needed to the design of the mains wiring cover.

Edited by Gina
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Attached the silicone heater pad to the aluminium sheet for my heated bed, removed the plastic coating and added the glass plate on top.  All the bed needs now is clamps to hold all the parts together and keep the aluminium flat.  The heater wires are already connected to mains neutral and the SSR - just needs the thermistor plugged into the Duet board.


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Sorted out holding the umbilical onto the X carriage and now printing clamps to hold it onto the back of the box to connect to the control board.


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Rear umbilical clamps.  Now, apart from connecting everything up, I need to sort out a way of holding the umbilical up so that it doesn't catch on the print or get jammed under the nozzle.


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Applied mains power with kettle lead and been testing.  Duet board receiving power and Z drive working fine - other things need wires connecting up.  Bed travel at 100mm in 20s - adequate.

Edited by Gina
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Connected thermistor in bed heater and now have bed heating working.  Aluminium plate heats up rapidly but the 4mm glass plate will take longer as was to be expected. One more small step...

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Attached connectors the the umbilical wires and connected to the Duet board.  Applied power but no WiFi connection so something wrong.  Unplugged connectors and tried again - WiFi OK.  Added hotend thermistor - WiFi still OK but thermistor wiring is faulty - intermittent connection.  I'll now work through the connections in turn.

  1. All motors connected - OK
  2. X endstop - problem
  3. Z probe - OK

X endstop problem solved - connections wrong.  Think the hotend thermistor was connection onto board which I think is fixed by removing and replacing connector (maybe dirt on pin or socket).  Can now run more tests.

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With hotend thermistor working, hotend heated up and when hot, extruder motor ran.  X homing works.  Y endstop needs connecting...

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Y endstop wired up and ribbon cable stuck to box.  X, Y and Z homing all now working fine.

  • Like 1
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Removed the glass plate and set up the "mesh grid" to give suitable points for the "mesh grid compensation" which is the very fine control for bed levelling.  Marked the probe points on the aluminium sheet, put the glass plate back and stuck pieces of copper foil at the probe points.  "Mesh grid compensation" is now working with the glass plate.  The aluminium sheet is not perfectly flat and needs the glass plate clamped down to hold the aluminium sheet between glass plate and the bed frame.  I shall 3D print the clamps.

Still to do :-

  1. Filament feed tube from filament reel in the bottom to extruder.
  2. Support for the umbilical to hold it up clear of the workings.
  3. Front panel to complete the box and stiffen the top - cut from a length of solid timber.
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2 hours ago, Gina said:

I've considered using "Stall detection and sensorless homing" in the stepper motor instead of using endstops but it seems complicated and also not very reliable so I think I'll stick with microswitches.

I had it working and it seemed ok. I've gone back to using conventional optical endstops as it is quieter. Plus the resume on power fail doesn't work correctly with stall detection as it sets the axis zero to the nearest 4 full steps.

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Thought I'd have a bit of fun and try printing even though it's not really ready.  Used PLA and tried printing a Benchy.  Well, for a start the glass plate slides on the aluminium sheet so the bed clamps will not only have to hold the bed parts together vertically but also stop horizontal movement on the frame.  The XY drive is fairly noisy when moving fast though quiet when moving slowly.  Meanwhile I'm printing bed clamps on my Mini printer.

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Following getting my 3D printers confused in Firefox and changing settings on my Mini printer, which was printing the bed clamps of Concorde, instead of the Concorde web site and messing up both print and Mini printer, I decided I'd print the parts on Concorde.  So now I'm printing the second bed clamp on Concorde itself.  Hence I now declare Concorde as a working printer even if it isn't finished!


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Yes, it certainly does.  Forgot that when I made my list of things to do.  I guess I could print some from PLA...  Or wheels to make it easier to move.

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OK - new list of things still to do :-

  1. Support to keep umbilical out of the works.  In progress.
  2. Filament feed Teflon tube with brackets to hold it.
  3. Make some proper feet or wheels.
  4. Fan and air duct for part cooling.
  5. Cover for Duet control board.
  6. Cooling fan for control board.
  7. Front panel for box to stiffen the top.
  8. Connectors for hotend heater and thermistor to facilitate hotend swapping.
Edited by Gina
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The Concorde printer is already printing better that the Titan in spite of not being finished and tweaked for best results.

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Umbilical support bracket.  I'll explain how this will work later.  This shows the print quality I'm getting from Concorde.  Printed with a 0.8mm nozzle.



  • Like 2
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