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"GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

Gina

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This 3D printer makes a bit of a departure from my others in that it is designed to give the best accuracy I can achieve rather than concentrating on speed or size, though I did want to print at least as big as my Titan printer (290mm x 290mm x 250mm).  Like Titan it uses a box as the main frame but unlike Titan and my other printers does NOT use "pink string and ceiling wax".  It uses tried and tested 3D printer designs rather than my usual "way out" ideas.  I took advice from a friend who has spent a lot of time on developing high accuracy 3D printers.



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17 minutes ago, Gina said:

Tried disabling CoreXY so that i could test the motors individually.  There is a problem with the RH motor (Drive 0) or X motion. The Y control moves the X carriage diagonally as expected.  That would indicate a RH motor problem yet that motor works with CoreXY mode.  I have confirmed that everything moved freely by hand.

Shouldn't drive 0 be connected to the LH motor? Not sure it would make any difference, though. Moving either motor by hand should move the carriage diagonally. Also check the order of the wires on the connectors. I had to switch the red & blue before using motors on the Duet which were wired for RAMPS. If you were using them on Duet before then probably ok.

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Sorry Dave - got my left and right mixed up again!!  I've had that problem all my life!!  You are right for RH above read LH!  Sorry for the confusion.

Edited by Gina

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15 minutes ago, jarl72 said:

Hello Gina,

I'm following your thread with a lot of interest, since I have been planning a similar build for some time.

One question, though: did you leave some built-in "give" to avoid over-constraining your axes? The difference in coefficients of expsinsion between the AL components and the wood frame (in particular given the size) can create some "interesting" issues there.

I doubt differential expansion will have much affect but there is a bit of stretch in the timing belts.

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To confirm my findings earlier, I've re-enabled CoreXY and both motors are working fine but again both X and Y controls drive the carriage in the Y direction - no X movement whatsoever!  I'm running out of things to try...  I do have the Duet WiFi board from the Giant printer I could try I guess.

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OK...  I've removed the Duet board (previously in the Titan printer) and substituted the one from my Giant printer and the result is just the same.  And yes, I have double checked that I didn't get confused and put the same board back - the config.g file shows the printer as "GinaRep Giant".  I changed the other to "GinaRep Concorde".

Incidentally, the Giant had the same arrangement of CoreXY with the right hand motor upside down.  I haven't touched the config.g since the Giant was working (though not very well).

Edited by Gina

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Think I'll sleep on the XY problem and work on the wiring and installation of PSU, Duet board, etc.  I have the NEMA23s screwed onto the box and now have to extend the wires and add connectors to plug into the Duet board.  Since I need new wiring anyway I think I might as well run it where I want it straight off.

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Just connected the NEMA23 Z motors to an 8 way flat cable rated at 4A per wire, soldered and heatshrink sleeved.  Then 8 connector female parts crimped on followed by insertion into two 4 pin housings.  This wiring business is tedious!!

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6 hours ago, Gina said:

I doubt differential expansion will have much affect but there is a bit of stretch in the timing belts.

Yep... I guess with the dT you are more likely to see the expansion will be negligible.

In any case, watch out for overconstraining of any of the axes. On my printer there's a misalignment of at most 1mm over the range of the Z axis, but that was enough to increase friction *a lot* on the igus bushings. I had to loosen a couple of screws to allow some movement. 

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Connected the Z drive and been testing - tremendous improvement over the 60mm NEMA17s.  3 times the speed, smooth and much quieter.  The NEMA23s are a great success :thumbsup:

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Gina

Posted (edited)

Now if only I can solve the XY drive problem.  Maybe try the 60mm long NEMA17s though the 48mm ones I'm using worked fine in my Giant printer.

Tried increasing motor currents to 2A (they're rated at 2.5A) and now have some X movement albeit with much "grumbling"!

Next test...  Swapped the 48mm NEMA17s for 60mm ones with current set to 1A (rating 1.2A), r4eversed the drive for the RH motor and the X and Y drives are now working fine 😀  Some noise on slewing but considering they're mounted on a gert big sounding board, that's not surprising.  That's with a slewing rate of 100mm/s in X or Y.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!  PHEW!!

Edited by Gina
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A couple of photos of wiring.  First is the Z motor wiring under the base of the box and second the RH XY motor wiring.

2090229865_ZDriveWiring01.JPG.0dc70adcd289169e4c50212da1a0476e.JPG941282942_RHXYMotorWiring01.JPG.d9e9348b9a477132534e8a369031564a.JPG

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Wiring for the LH XY motor and Duet board connected to XY and Z wiring.

1360593211_LHXYMotorWiring01.JPG.6aaccedb365da398f2aa55e5fd66f663.JPG1813345255_XYZMotorWiring01.JPG.0053000eee6ec5075cc08e42f2ca391f.JPG

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Gina

Posted (edited)

Seems logical to put the PSU beside the Duet control board to keep high current connections as short as possible.  Then there's the question of the mains input and ON/OFF switch.  In some ways I would like the switch near the front but I had it near the back on the Titan on a printed plate together with a "kettle socket" beside it.  I feel inclined to do the same with this printer (except that it would be near the top on this one whereas it was at the bottom on the Titan).  This would keep mains wiring short as well and I could use any "Kettle lead" for the mains input.  All mains connections could be shielded from errant fingers with one cover with this arrangement.

844797922_PSUWiring01.JPG.073acb28e63e2d6e95e3e3eb6f92b305.JPG

Edited by Gina

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THIS combined socket, fuseholder and switch looks a good option.  Probably use an 8A fuse.

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Decided to put the X endstop on the X carriage where the wires can simply go in the umbilical.  So to provide somewhere to attach this plus the umbilical I have redesigned the X carriage front plate.  Now printing it in red PETG.

2020514870_Screenshotfrom2019-01-1821-27-06.png.3698a7d9d4667f4eaea3b19da1ad8053.png

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Mains input connector arrived today so I've designed a plate to mount it on the box.  Also made a hole in the side of the box to take it.

672891362_MainsInput01.JPG.6b204d8a0950e521823d74b72e3c3c23.JPG

1372362110_Screenshotfrom2019-01-1918-44-48.png.3791e6ecc9163687a07994fd9f379b18.png2080143434_Screenshotfrom2019-01-1918-45-59.png.cd52082087f32528ea62f25c7e229743.png

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Gina

Posted (edited)

Mains input socket and switch fitted into box.

323698939_MainsInput02.JPG.8f8dd66fa3eaa2947bcb687f8d84ae17.JPG2139338012_MainsInput03.JPG.3b6e82b2a936a5e5a11f2550284111b0.JPG

Edited by Gina
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Inside.  OK so it's a very rough hole but it will be covered up by a 3D printed shield that will cover all mains connections.

753567454_MainsInput04.JPG.bca5d8ad0ba0e0d95876ea27e13d40bf.JPG

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Anyone know any reason I shouldn't use solder connections to these rather than the illustrated crimp connectors?

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Soldering is ok as long as a good mechanical connection is made first. Be careful not to overheat the connectors though as the plastic melts easily on these connectors. I've destroyed a few myself trying to desolder connections. I would sleeve/heatshrink the connections after just in case.

Edited by tekkydave
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