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will this set up work

turbotim

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brianb

brianb

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CG-5 will be highly marginal for DSO imaging ... if you're a DSO imaging newbie, could I respectfully suggest an 80mm apo refractor on an EQ6 or at a push HEQ5 Pro mount ... numerous people have started with such a rig and many of them manage to produce good images!

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Sam

Sam

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The CG-5 might be a bit small for the XT10, as there's quite a bit of weight going on the mount with counter balance weights, camera, guidescope etc. It'll make the mount work very hard to guide and you'll likely to get any wobbles lasting for a lot longer. For the XT10 a EQ6 (or equivalent) is properly the minimum sized mount that'll avoid some of the guiding problems (I've got a 250px which is roughly the same size as an XT10 on a EQ6 and it's performs very well).

The XT10 is an excellent size for imaging with plenty of aperature, you'll have no problems imaging some of the fainter DSOs. I don't think you need to invest in another scope just add a EQ6 Syntrek or equivalent and you'll have very nice setup.:)

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turbotim

turbotim

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Is the eq6 your talking about come from sky watcher? And i want to find a used one locally, can you guys tell me where to look or what classifieds i could look in and find one close by me.

I got a good deal on the xt 10 and dont have the heart to sell it, we have been threw to much together:D

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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May I join the chorus with Brian and Peter and say short fast apo on HEQ5 or 6. You don't need the 6 for a small scope but might like to future proof yourself.

BTW, faint objects need fast f ratio, not aperture alone.

Honestly, don't go near wedge mounted SCTs with long focal lengths like the Meade in the post above. Before you start spending you might like to read Making Every Photon Count by Steve Richards. You need to get your head round f ratio and focal length. These are the key terms in imaging. You want fast f ratio and short focal length if you want pictures that are defect free and relatively easy to take. I stress relatively!!

Olly

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brianb

brianb

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gonna have to be a heq5 or eq6 with the 10" i am afraid

Or something even more beefy.

Incidentally the metal tube legged tripod is the weak point on both the EQ6 and the HEQ5 Pro, upgrading to a wooden tripod (Berlebach Planet) makes a significant improvement to the vibration damping time but the extra cost is considerable.

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Sam

Sam

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Or something even more beefy.

Incidentally the metal tube legged tripod is the weak point on both the EQ6 and the HEQ5 Pro, upgrading to a wooden tripod (Berlebach Planet) makes a significant improvement to the vibration damping time but the extra cost is considerable.

or a pier

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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I did the alt/az SCT thing (CPC800) - It was Christmas eve .. it was in stock and looked wicked....and At the time I had a wad of chrimbo dosh shouting spend me....

The piggybacked a 66 and later a 72 on it...

After a while I built a wedge for the tripod.. followed by a fixed combined pier and wedge and this ended up being "surrounded" by an obs....

Nearly all the imaging I have done has been through the Short fracs...

If I knew then what I know now I would have bought "something" on an EQ6...

I know have a HEQ5 "Pro" It only cost me £5 - Which now has its own pier outside the obs...

Billy...

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turbotim

turbotim

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I am breaking down and selling my dob. I found a couple of fracs i think some of them are to long, because the longer a telescope is the slower the focal ratio, i want a faster focal ratio right? This first frac i am going to post is nice i just think its too long for dso am i right? Now, remember i want pics of adronema, dumbell and bubble nebula to be full screen shots like i am flying by them in my space ship! What mm do you think i should look for 400mm, 800mm, 1000mm? Sorry about all the questions! And one more time, a longer telescope means it wont be ideal for dso? Because it will have a slower focal ratio right? This first frac is a f9 that means its too slow right?

post-21673-133877512127_thumb.jpg

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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I'm sorry but no one scope is going to be able to deliver the full screen shots your after of that range of targets... not without the addition of Barlows/TeleConv's or Reducers depending on what Focal length scope you end up with...

Might be worth you downloading a copy of CCdCalc and the extended image libraries to see how different targets wil look with different scopes and Sensors...

http://www.newastro.com/book_new/camera_app.php

Billy...

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Sam

Sam

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I recommend you have a look at the albums on here to show what you can achieve with different scopes. The images (non moon or planet ones) in my album were all taken with first an 8" and then a 10" Newt on an EQ6 (the earlier ones are a bit rough but you learn as you go along). It gives you some idea of the image scale that the setup is capable of, noting that the camera also influences what you see.

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turbotim

turbotim

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One problem is i tried to attach my camera to my xt 10 and it wouldn't travel enough to focus, so i figure i need a low profile focuser. 250 dollars, then mount is over 1000. So to be able to track i guess is the most important and i want to get close to andromeda! So i don't really want wide field so im thinking about this one. Would this be a good andromeda scope? And i will go read those things you guys told me about right now. thanks for your help. And check out this 6inch frac the mount is strong and beefy too! 2053-m.JPG

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