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EF - ATIK - Filter Wheel Conversion PART1


Coco

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When I received my 314L+ and Atik filter wheel a soon realised i was going to need a nice quality short tube frac to use for wide field, I had up until the ATIK arrived always used my favourite lens the Sigma 100-300mm F4 EX DG APO HSM ( that really is its name), this lens has seen of all the competition in the EF range of L lenses, its simply superb!

The problem with Canon lenses is the registration distance between the rear mount and the film/cmos face. The lens registration is 44mm .

The first hurdle is the EF mount, Geoptik make a mount but you simply directly mount a ccd straight to the lens, no filter wheel

So here is my home brew adapter, its cloudy so I miht as well give it a shot..

Materials..

1 x old EF macro extension tube

1 x 3” square piece of 2mm alloy sheet

1 x 1.25 nose piece.

Figure below shows the shortened EF macro tube, I took this down to the rear of the face plate. You can see the cut piece of ally sheet with the nose piece epoxy glued on.

Note the cut out, this was to allow the lens contacts to clear the ally sheet, I need to get the adapter as thin as possible in order to achieve infinity focus with the wheel attached

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This is the top side, you can see how simple it looks

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This image shows the rear of the lens, I have unscrewed and remove the internal baffle, as the nose piece has been measured and comes to within 3 mm of the re4ar element the shroud is not needed ( I’ve put it aside in a safe place)

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This image shows a test fit, everything fits and nothing is fowling..

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Here is the 2 main parts epoxy glued together.. I’ll allow 24hrs before testing it

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This is lens side showing the shorten nose piece, its now hand dried so ive put it to one side to harden..

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Part 2 next: attaching it all together :D

Hope you enjoyed this :D

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Part II

Ok so ive now finished the little project but not 1stlighted it yet :D

here you can see the adapter on the ATIK filter wheel

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And attached to the camera

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And showing the correct lens registration 44mm... well nearly :D

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I've been battling with this one too but no matter how small I make my adapter adapter (I too use EF extension tube bits), the very tip of the canon lens will still touch the filter wheel face and that doesn't allow for the thickness of material required to bridge the gap between the M42 male and piece of EF extension tube remaining. My sensor is 17.5mm inside the front of the SXVF-H9 CCD, the filter wheel is 19.0mm and the male to male 'T' adapter between the CCD and the Filter wheel has a depth of 2.0mm so the maths is as follows:-

17.5 + 19.0 + 2.00 = 38.5mm

Canon lenses should be 44.5mm from the camera sensor so that leaves 44.5 - 38.5 = 6.0mm. Sadly, the mounting face to tip of EF sensor connectors on the lens is 7.0mm - aaaarrrggghhh, there is not enough space!!!

Hope yours works out for you!

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Heh up looks grand...

Peter...

thanks Grommet!
Steve..

Canon lenses should be 44.5mm from the camera sensor so that leaves 44.5 - 38.5 = 6.0mm. Sadly, the mounting face to tip of EF sensor connectors on the lens is 7.0mm - aaaarrrggghhh, there is not enough space!!!

Lol.... the ATIK is 11mm thats why I bought it :D
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  • 7 months later...

Preset them on the camera body and remove the lens without switching the camera off...

Some suggest removign the battery...

stick the EF lens onto an EOS camera, set the aperture to whatever you want it to be and then remove the battery from the camera. All the Canon EF lenses I’ve used will maintain their currently set lens apertures when you disconnect the power.

Billy...

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mmm, is this true of all lenses, eg Sony lense.

Easy way to find out, give it a go.

Thanxs

with the sony lenses, if you bodge a rear lens cap as the connector, the lens cap opens the aperture fully when it is attached to the lens.

I must try my sigma 100-300 EX DG APO with my phillips sc900 ;)

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  • 2 years later...

Nice job there :)

I use vintage Pentax/Praktica M42x1mm ex film SLR lenses which have a back focus of 45mm.  Then using what's called a "russian adapter" to convert from M42x1 to T2 thread, EFW2 and 314L+ CCD camera everything works out just about right.  In fact a 0.6mm Baader spacer makes the infinity focus very close to the infinity mark on the lens.  There are some very high quality lenses available (ebay) at quite low prices eg. Asahi SMC Takumar and Zeiss lenses.

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I’ve finally  added a 2" IDAS filter to the 1.25 wheel, I already had the filter but it wouldn’t fit into the nose between the CCD and filter wheel, damn and blast, I would have to either buy, swap or do without my beloved IDAS P2 , something I wasn’t prepared to be beaten to submission for...
I needed a cunning plan ( baldric voice in head ) .. After various attempts I finally found a solution that would actually benefit me two fold.  1. the EOS face to CCD was already 4.5mm short so I had to either extend the T2 double male adapter between the CCD and filter (as I had in the past) or 2. Use a spacer plate and mount the filter in it... (hurrah)
So out with the jigsaw and a fresh sharp aluminium blade..

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Using a hole cutter 2 mm narrower than the filter glass ( lucky me) I finished it off with a rat tail file and some emery paper, pre drilled the holes in the original filer top plate allowing the carousel to work.

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4 micro spots of silicone will hold the filter into place, the fit is push fit perfect..

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Fished and painted .. ready to mount the IDAS and re build the wheel...

Enjoy :)

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  • 10 months later...

I hope I can resurrect this discussion.

How about focusing.

I have been thinking about using EF lens. However, EF lens's focusing ring is electric. How do we get to proper focus on CCD cam. Esp. when there's significant temperature change during imaging session.

Thanks

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