Car battery
Started by
roger94
, Sep 29 2009 09:57 AM
#1
Posted 29 September 2009 - 09:57 AM
Is it possible to use a car battery instead of an expencive powertank? If yes, how?
Roger
#2
Posted 29 September 2009 - 10:37 AM
Yes, I've used one on my EQ6 before by getting crocodile clip > cigarette lighter adaptor from maplins. I also got a 4 point cigarette lighter adaptor to add dew heaters and any other 12v appliances. For the mount I used a cigarette lighter to EQ6 power cable from astronomiser. A word of warning though, car batteries are not deep cycle batteries (they are designed to crank a car from cold rather than prolonged 12v of power). I often found my EQ6 struggling when slewing in both axis after a couple hours use due to the drop in battery juice.
Matt
Matt
Evostar Skywatcher 120/1000mm Refractor, EQ3.2 Mount
ED80 Refractor
Skyliner 250PX, EQ6 GOTO Synscan Mount
Bresser 70/700 Refractor (guide scope) & ToUcam Pro II
10x50 Bressner Bins
Canon 1000D (Modded)
Website
ED80 Refractor
Skyliner 250PX, EQ6 GOTO Synscan Mount
Bresser 70/700 Refractor (guide scope) & ToUcam Pro II
10x50 Bressner Bins
Canon 1000D (Modded)
Website
#3
Posted 29 September 2009 - 11:13 AM
you would be better off with a leasure battery, i.e. the ones for caravans and alike, you can pick up 40 amp versions for about the £40 mark, 40 amps should give you 20 hours service at 2 amp per hour
SCOPE:- Celestron 8 SE XLT, Starwave 80ED, ST 80
MOUNT:- HEQ5 Pro Synscan, EQmod
EYEPIECES:- 13 & 21mm Hyperions
CAMERA:- Meade DSI Pro 2 Mono, Astronomik LRGB filters + Philips spc900nc webcam with Baader uv/ir filter
EXTRAS:- Solar filter, Antares FR1 0.5 & f/6.3 & f3.3 SCT focal reducers,
Member of the "eastmidlandsstargazers" click to join.
In Loving Memory of all those lost to cancer & all those who defeated the beast
MOUNT:- HEQ5 Pro Synscan, EQmod
EYEPIECES:- 13 & 21mm Hyperions
CAMERA:- Meade DSI Pro 2 Mono, Astronomik LRGB filters + Philips spc900nc webcam with Baader uv/ir filter
EXTRAS:- Solar filter, Antares FR1 0.5 & f/6.3 & f3.3 SCT focal reducers,
Member of the "eastmidlandsstargazers" click to join.
In Loving Memory of all those lost to cancer & all those who defeated the beast
#4
Posted 29 September 2009 - 01:17 PM
#5
Posted 29 September 2009 - 02:37 PM
there not bad, i think the batteries on these are in between the two. hold charge better than a car battery but not as good as a leasure battery
SCOPE:- Celestron 8 SE XLT, Starwave 80ED, ST 80
MOUNT:- HEQ5 Pro Synscan, EQmod
EYEPIECES:- 13 & 21mm Hyperions
CAMERA:- Meade DSI Pro 2 Mono, Astronomik LRGB filters + Philips spc900nc webcam with Baader uv/ir filter
EXTRAS:- Solar filter, Antares FR1 0.5 & f/6.3 & f3.3 SCT focal reducers,
Member of the "eastmidlandsstargazers" click to join.
In Loving Memory of all those lost to cancer & all those who defeated the beast
MOUNT:- HEQ5 Pro Synscan, EQmod
EYEPIECES:- 13 & 21mm Hyperions
CAMERA:- Meade DSI Pro 2 Mono, Astronomik LRGB filters + Philips spc900nc webcam with Baader uv/ir filter
EXTRAS:- Solar filter, Antares FR1 0.5 & f/6.3 & f3.3 SCT focal reducers,
Member of the "eastmidlandsstargazers" click to join.
In Loving Memory of all those lost to cancer & all those who defeated the beast
#6
Posted 29 September 2009 - 02:54 PM
I've been using 20Ah gell cell batteries for the last few years. With a good electronic charger they seem to last forever. One for the scope and one for the "extras"
Pays for itself very quickly.
Pays for itself very quickly.
"Astronomical Spectroscopy-The Final Frontier" -to boldly go where few amateurs have gone before.
C11, NEQ6pro, DMK41AF04, ATik314L+, 1000D modded, SM60DS/BF15, 102mmPST, Spectra-L200 and other Spectroscope(s).
"Astronomical Spectroscopy for Amateurs", "Grating Spectroscopes -How to use them" - Springer
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/astronomical_spectroscopy/
C11, NEQ6pro, DMK41AF04, ATik314L+, 1000D modded, SM60DS/BF15, 102mmPST, Spectra-L200 and other Spectroscope(s).
"Astronomical Spectroscopy for Amateurs", "Grating Spectroscopes -How to use them" - Springer
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/astronomical_spectroscopy/
#7
Posted 29 September 2009 - 03:02 PM
Gotta say any deep cycle battery (marine battery for instance) would be the best choice. A lot of those power tanks are only 17Ah which won´t last too long if you have a lot of things connected.
Also I understand that some Batteries tend to last longer if you don´t fully discharge them, therefore if you take them to 50% of charge and then recharge it will last longer than if you are taking it to 15% of charge and recharging.
Having said all of that I am using a cheap jump starter battery (with the leads and the lights) and it looks like the power tanks you can buy in other places. It is 17Ah and I am using it to power the cameras and the filter wheel.
I will get a deep cycle one when I have the money....and a solar charger...
Neil C
p.s. and in answer to the inital question a car battery is usable but will last less time :-
A car's battery is designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time. This surge of current is needed to turn the engine over during starting. Once the engine starts, the alternator provides all the power that the car needs, so a car battery may go through its entire life without ever being drained more than 20 percent of its total capacity. Used in this way, a car battery can last a number of years. To achieve a large amount of current, a car battery uses thin plates in order to increase its surface area.
A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. A deep cycle battery can provide a surge when needed, but nothing like the surge a car battery can. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged over and over again (something that would ruin a car battery very quickly). To accomplish this, a deep cycle battery uses thicker plates.
Also I understand that some Batteries tend to last longer if you don´t fully discharge them, therefore if you take them to 50% of charge and then recharge it will last longer than if you are taking it to 15% of charge and recharging.
Having said all of that I am using a cheap jump starter battery (with the leads and the lights) and it looks like the power tanks you can buy in other places. It is 17Ah and I am using it to power the cameras and the filter wheel.
I will get a deep cycle one when I have the money....and a solar charger...
Neil C
p.s. and in answer to the inital question a car battery is usable but will last less time :-
A car's battery is designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time. This surge of current is needed to turn the engine over during starting. Once the engine starts, the alternator provides all the power that the car needs, so a car battery may go through its entire life without ever being drained more than 20 percent of its total capacity. Used in this way, a car battery can last a number of years. To achieve a large amount of current, a car battery uses thin plates in order to increase its surface area.
A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. A deep cycle battery can provide a surge when needed, but nothing like the surge a car battery can. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged over and over again (something that would ruin a car battery very quickly). To accomplish this, a deep cycle battery uses thicker plates.
Neil C
Mesu 200, ACP, MAXIM DL.
Artemis 285, QHY6, QHY8L, 80ED, C11,
Homemade Ascom focus control see yahoo group for details:-
http://tech.groups.y...ory_automation/
Mesu 200, ACP, MAXIM DL.
Artemis 285, QHY6, QHY8L, 80ED, C11,
Homemade Ascom focus control see yahoo group for details:-
http://tech.groups.y...ory_automation/
#8
Posted 29 September 2009 - 09:01 PM
Thank you guys!
I don't quiet see how to hook up a telescope to a + and a - pole:o
Do you need som sort of adapter?
And how can I charge it?
Sorry for beeing such a noob at this :/
I don't quiet see how to hook up a telescope to a + and a - pole:o
Do you need som sort of adapter?
And how can I charge it?
Sorry for beeing such a noob at this :/
Roger
#9
Posted 29 September 2009 - 09:37 PM
One of these crocodile clip cables will sort the battery end (cheaper from here or ebay though)
then get one of these for the telescope mount.
I also got one of these so I can run dew controllers, camera etc off the battery too
I use a 4.8watt solar panel, 12v regulator and marine leisure battery. Works a treat
Matt
then get one of these for the telescope mount.
I also got one of these so I can run dew controllers, camera etc off the battery too
I use a 4.8watt solar panel, 12v regulator and marine leisure battery. Works a treat
Matt
Evostar Skywatcher 120/1000mm Refractor, EQ3.2 Mount
ED80 Refractor
Skyliner 250PX, EQ6 GOTO Synscan Mount
Bresser 70/700 Refractor (guide scope) & ToUcam Pro II
10x50 Bressner Bins
Canon 1000D (Modded)
Website
ED80 Refractor
Skyliner 250PX, EQ6 GOTO Synscan Mount
Bresser 70/700 Refractor (guide scope) & ToUcam Pro II
10x50 Bressner Bins
Canon 1000D (Modded)
Website
#10
Posted 30 September 2009 - 08:45 AM
Any reason why a charger cannot be permanently connected to the battery in use? One would then be using the battery as a giant smoothing capacitor and also it would be on charge all the time - rather like a car battery?
Arthur
Arthur
WO 70 : PM-1 (in renovation mode) : Some DS-mounted stuff...
#11
Posted 30 September 2009 - 08:52 AM
If you have the correct type of charger this can ( and is) done.
It really needs to be an electronic three stage charger which modulates the charging current and trickle charges without cooking the battery.
We use them all the time on our battery operated semi-mobile equipment.
Guys,
just remember those marine batteries etc are pretty heavy to lug around... you'll soon get fed up with the weight. A couple of gel cell can do the same job, better.
It really needs to be an electronic three stage charger which modulates the charging current and trickle charges without cooking the battery.
We use them all the time on our battery operated semi-mobile equipment.
Guys,
just remember those marine batteries etc are pretty heavy to lug around... you'll soon get fed up with the weight. A couple of gel cell can do the same job, better.
"Astronomical Spectroscopy-The Final Frontier" -to boldly go where few amateurs have gone before.
C11, NEQ6pro, DMK41AF04, ATik314L+, 1000D modded, SM60DS/BF15, 102mmPST, Spectra-L200 and other Spectroscope(s).
"Astronomical Spectroscopy for Amateurs", "Grating Spectroscopes -How to use them" - Springer
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/astronomical_spectroscopy/
C11, NEQ6pro, DMK41AF04, ATik314L+, 1000D modded, SM60DS/BF15, 102mmPST, Spectra-L200 and other Spectroscope(s).
"Astronomical Spectroscopy for Amateurs", "Grating Spectroscopes -How to use them" - Springer
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/astronomical_spectroscopy/
#12
Posted 30 September 2009 - 10:01 AM
Quote
Any reason why a charger cannot be permanently connected to the battery in use? One would then be using the battery as a giant smoothing capacitor
(1) your equipment is liable to be wrecked my massive surges which have been known to come down the mains lines
(2) not having a direct connection to lethal voltage AC is IMHO a Good Idea when working outside in the dark dampness.
When you're making up a wiring harness for your battery, try to make the polarity idiotproof - most scopes have no protection against reverse polarity connection, their electronics will be instantly destroyed if you get it wrong. Colour coded croc clips are NOT enough as you will not be able to see the colours when working in the dark by the light of a red torch.
Also be very careful to make it as difficult as possible to short the terminals accidentally, a 12V high current car battery is quite capable of melting a tungsen steel screwdriver blade.
#13
Posted 30 September 2009 - 01:07 PM
In the OBS I use a 13.8V 20A DC supply which connects to a 110AH Lesiure battery and then run everything of the battery ... Saved me a few times last winter when there were Short power cuts and brown outs..
Every few weeks I partially discharge the battery by runnnig the gear for an hour or so without the DC supply switched on ...
Peter...
Every few weeks I partially discharge the battery by runnnig the gear for an hour or so without the DC supply switched on ...
Peter...
We choose to image with DSLR’s. We choose to image with DSLR’s in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard, because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend to win, and the others, too.
#14
Posted 30 September 2009 - 03:28 PM
brianb said:
True, but
(1) your equipment is liable to be wrecked my massive surges which have been known to come down the mains lines
(2) not having a direct connection to lethal voltage AC is IMHO a Good Idea when working outside in the dark dampness.
(1) your equipment is liable to be wrecked my massive surges which have been known to come down the mains lines
(2) not having a direct connection to lethal voltage AC is IMHO a Good Idea when working outside in the dark dampness.
Hmm.
1) Hence the "giant smoothing capacitor" that the battery will become, and that also assuming the mains can get to it - see next
2) How will there be a "direct connection" to the mains when the battery charger is supplying 13.8v DC through a transformer?
Arthur
WO 70 : PM-1 (in renovation mode) : Some DS-mounted stuff...
#15
Posted 30 September 2009 - 06:22 PM
Quote
How will there be a "direct connection" to the mains when the battery charger is supplying 13.8v DC through a transformer?
#16
Posted 30 September 2009 - 07:09 PM
Wickes – Tools, Ladders & Storage – Motoring – Motor Accessories – 12V Power Pack and Compressor
Hope this helps.
Chris.
Hope this helps.
Chris.
Please don't rush me, I'm in too much of a hurry.
25x100 big bins :bino1:
8" LX90 gps and a few bits n bobs to make it look like I know what I'm doing. :dontknow:
Canon eos 5d mk1 + 75/300 zoom.
25x100 big bins :bino1:
8" LX90 gps and a few bits n bobs to make it look like I know what I'm doing. :dontknow:
Canon eos 5d mk1 + 75/300 zoom.
#17
Posted 01 October 2009 - 03:49 PM
Highflight said:
Oops! Don't bother. Checked this morning and they have sold out. Sorry.
Please don't rush me, I'm in too much of a hurry.
25x100 big bins :bino1:
8" LX90 gps and a few bits n bobs to make it look like I know what I'm doing. :dontknow:
Canon eos 5d mk1 + 75/300 zoom.
25x100 big bins :bino1:
8" LX90 gps and a few bits n bobs to make it look like I know what I'm doing. :dontknow:
Canon eos 5d mk1 + 75/300 zoom.
#18
Posted 03 October 2009 - 01:10 PM
Thank you for all the replies. I bought a Celestron C8 NGT yesterday and I got a really good price at the 17ah powertank so I bought it:p I'm very pleased with my new scope and the powertank never seems to go empty!
Roger
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