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QH5YL-ii fuzzy view & newton rings


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Hi All

again.....just another quick question

with regards to solar imaging with a QH5YL-ii, i've recently been trying to image again some solar disk mosaics with my small lunt35, now im not to sure why this happens, but any capture software I use tends to show quite soft almost blurry screen shots, ive spent ages trying my get it focused as best I can so I can sort of count that out (almost), managed to sort the gain & shot speed (m/s) as to get the best image I can on screen too, (cant get rid of newton rings either) soooo..... would it be of any use trying a IR blocking filter on the cam at all ? or being a solar scope I shouldn't need one, or... just get a more suitable cam & keep the QHY for guiding

also the helical focuser is a bit pants, fine for visual, but moves slightest touch or knock of a cable an has no locking screw to stop It rotating, anyone have any quick fixes or ideas.

any help much appreciated.

kind regards

john

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The shape of the QHY camera should make it easier to find focus I'd have thought.  If there's insufficient travel you could just move the camera in or out a bit (within reason).

I'm sure I read in another posting recently that someone was using flats to get rid of newton's rings but I'm really not sure.  I'll see if I can find the post again.

James

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Hi James thanks for reply & link will give it a read

I can get focus, its just the image on the screen I have to use to focus tends to be like looking throu tracing paper, tends to look very soft, captures alright get upto 52fps in firecapture, then when I convert to tiff then try combining in most processing software tends to only partially do it with other images ramdomly attach but not to mosaic, gets a lil frustrating.

regards

john

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hi michael

curious as how to do flats with a solar scope, not had much experience in producing them

I make flats by covering the objective with a few layers of cling film and recording the image while the scope points to the sun. In my case 4 layers works best, although I do need to triple exposure time

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I make flats by covering the objective with a few layers of cling film and recording the image while the scope points to the sun. In my case 4 layers works best, although I do need to triple exposure time

That genuinely made me laugh, Michael.  Where did you get the idea for using cling film?

James

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well i finally got a full disk mosaic from my images the other day, thanks to michael, autostitch worked its magic an combined them without a problem, its a bit rough as had no flats to add and some processing no work of art, will try another trick which was mentioned to see wot i can do about the uneven illumination ive got. Also there is a lot of banding across the whole disk which was also on the avi's not sure if this is an artifact of the camera or newton rings hopefully someone will be able to tell me.

ive added a stacked image of before anything was done forgot to mention these were taken around 6.45pm with clear skies maybe something to do with the quality of the image maybe

regards

john

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