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where to get a 6 or 8 inch pipe for a pier from?


Andy I 2013

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I made mine from 200mm square steel pipe from local steel yard plus a square for the bottom, welded it up myself but they were more than willing to manufacture it at a fraction of the price of a ready made one.

Dave

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Hi everyone 

I have  been looking for a bit now and i cant to seem find one as cheap as possible a 6 or 8 inch 2 meters long for a pier for a EQ5 mount 

Thanks Andy

You can often find it at scrap metal merchants, or yards. Also there are the reclamation yards who sometimes have old pipes or pillars made of cast steel/cast iron. Cast iron is ok if bolted onto but a sod to weld. Unitor or used to do special welding rods for it but not sure now. Then it had to be ball peened into shape and welded again. But it is a great material to reduce vibrations.

Derek

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Thanks every one for getting back to me i think the 8 inch galvanized  steel ducting will be best and at a good price as well and will be able to up grade on it in the future thanks martin for the link. ive found the break disk that i am going to use at euro car part  ford fiesta 1.4 year 1990  with a center hole 63.5 will do i think .

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On the side of the A52 in a ditch in my case.  I spotted it, an eight feet length and 160mm in diameter when out for a run and went back for it in the car a month later to see if it was still there and it was!  Here it is concreted into place  ;)  I will paint it and make it look good in due course.  it is full of concrete and absolutely rock solid.

Obs a work in progress.

post-16295-0-30644900-1432469606_thumb.j

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The bigger the better in some ways, as you may want to upgrade to a bigger mount in the future. It seems to happen so often! Once concreted in the ground it can be a real sod to dig out again. More cost and longer down time, disruption and hassle.

Derek

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That 160mm pipe which I have concreted in would hold the Queen Mary it is so solid.  I cannot think of any mount available for amateur purposes that it would not hold with aplomb.  

I think sometimes folks over-engineer their peer.

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Hi Andy, if you are going to use ducting just check on the wall thickness first. If you want to bolt or weld brackets onto it you will need a reasonable wall thickness. If you're going to fill it with concrete then no worries :)

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The other option would be to use a thicker walled steel tube like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodburner-Flue-152-4mm-6-x-3mm-x-1450mm-long-Mild-Steel-Pipe-Chimney-/291363351498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d69bebca

then you don't have fill it with concrete.

Those guys at BEJ engineering you linked to on ebay are superb.  Very friendly and fast dispatchers too.

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The other option would be to use a thicker walled steel tube like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodburner-Flue-152-4mm-6-x-3mm-x-1450mm-long-Mild-Steel-Pipe-Chimney-/291363351498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d69bebca

then you don't have fill it with concrete.

Hi,

Have looked at the link you posted regarding the steel pipe, I have contacted them and asked for a price for a specific length, very quick reply and helpful.

Why would you not need to fill with concrete, as I had planned too, to hold the threaded bar in place, for my wedge.

Would it be vibration free if left hollow, or would you maybe just fill with sand ??

Regards

AB

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Hi,

Have looked at the link you posted regarding the steel pipe, I have contacted them and asked for a price for a specific length, very quick reply and helpful.

Why would you not need to fill with concrete, as I had planned too, to hold the threaded bar in place, for my wedge.

Would it be vibration free if left hollow, or would you maybe just fill with sand ??

Regards

AB

If you order this pipe - see how strong & heavy it is when it arrives. You might decide then that concrete filling is superfluous. The 9" dia pipe for my main obsy pier was a two man lifting job to move it. Not sure what adding concrete to something that's already very stiff and extremely heavy would achieve- other than making the eventual demolition/removal nigh on impossible?

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Trouble with steel is that it can ring, most will be OK. But if near to the road, the vibration from lorries exhausts or even cars can cause the reverberations to propergate through to the CCD. Filling will deaden the effect. Any knock on the post can cause the same, although short lived. If you do get that sort of problem you can always fill the post afterwards, so not the end of the world!

Derek

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If you order this pipe - see how strong & heavy it is when it arrives. You might decide then that concrete filling is superfluous. The 9" dia pipe for my main obsy pier was a two man lifting job to move it. Not sure what adding concrete to something that's already very stiff and extremely heavy would achieve- other than making the eventual demolition/removal nigh on impossible?

I completely agree, but as I use a Meade wedge I have to have threaded bar concreted in place to bolt the wedge too, or I have a steel plate welded to the top of the pipe, which will incur more cost !

Do,you think I could maybe fill with sharp sand, then just concrete the top 12" where the threaded rods will be ?

No so much demo then if I ever have to dismantle.

Regards

AB

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I just used concrete held in a cardboard postage tube a bit over 180mm diameter that plumbing supplies came in.  With rebar going down into the concrete base and 16mm threaded rods to which to attach the pierhead gubbins.  Rebar up to the top and the rods went down a metre with a bend on the bottom to prevent turning.  A QE2 mooring post :)

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