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New Astrophotography Kit


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I'm a new member and first time poster and I'm after some advice before spending a couple of grand on new kit. I spent a number years as a youngster doing visual astronomy but as I got older and life took over, the hobby fell by the wayside. However, last year my wife bought me a fairly basic setup (Celestron 130SLT) which has re-ignited the flame again. This time though, my interest has firmly turned towards DSO astrophotography.

So, I have spent many months reading this forum (and other forums) and I have purchased and read 'Making Every Photon Count' which really is a book that everyone even remotely interested should read. I have narrowed down the kit to what I think would be sufficient. What I want to know is, is there anything that I have missed out that I would need e.g. what would I need to connect the guidescope to the OTA, spacers, better focuser etc?

The proposed kit:

Skywatcher Evostar 80ED PRO OTA

Skywatcher Startravel 80T OTA

Skywatcher AZ-EQ6GT

Skywatcher 0.85xFocal Reducer for ED Telescopes

QHY5-II Mono Guide Camera

The mount might seem over kill, but I want to future proof a little as I may progress to larger OTA's eventually. Also, I'd like to preserve the AltAz functionality as my 11 year old daughter sometimes likes to look, so a quick setup would be beneficial.

Camera wise, I will initially be using my Canon 600d that I will probably mod soon. I might be able to persuade Father Christmas to buy me a reasonable CCD if the bug really does bite.

Please suggest any changes to the kit, for example, would the Sywatcher Esprit 80ED be better now or start cheaper and work up? The OTA is something that I have changed my mind about at least 100 times a week over the past few months!!

Cheers 

Rich

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I'm fairly new to this myself, but what I have learnt it that it is best to do one step at a time:

Play with the kit, paying particular attention to all of it ;), indoors, in the daytime, until you are familiar with it all.

Next, take out the mount and scope (do you need a power supply too?) out and practice polar alignment (PA) and a three star alignment with the Synscan handset.

Then attach the dslr (a 600D is very good btw) and see how long you can take unguided subs for. This will give you a good idea of many things including light pollution, accuracy of PA, the unguided mounts performance, focussing (Bahtinov mask?) etc.

Once you've got that under your belt, get the laptop out and connect your scope (via usb -> serial adapter or direct st4 cable), guide camera, dslr and games controller handset (very useful, this) and start playing with "Push here Dummy" (PHD), which of course you are already familiar with ;)

Then you can add CdC or Stellarium and spend nearly as many nights sat out in the cold as you do wishing that you were sat out in the cold...

Like I suggest, one step at a time - the learning curve is almost as much fun as getting your first image! Almost.

Then of course the processing learning curve begins...

I love it! :)

PS - don't forget the essential cardboard box. ;)

Have fun!

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Swap the ST80 for a 9x50 finderguider, its more cost effective, a lot lighter (hence less flex), and it works! Ive got pretty much the same setup, and a 100% hit rate is not uncommon (sessions with no dropped subs) if given uninterruped clear sky. I think an ST80 is a bit of overkill at your focal length.

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Great line up there. Almost the same as my decisions over the past few weeks. I am brand new too and have opted (with the help of the friendly guys and glas here :) ) for:

- SW 80ED DS-Pro

- ST80

- AZ-EQ5GT (went for the 5 as it is half the weight and I have a bad back otherwise would have gone for the 6!!!)

- ZWO ASI120MC (the QHY5-II is my other choice but just fancied the ZWO as a friend has one and is pleased)

Like you I am using a modded Canon DSLR, 500D, so you and I will have almost the same set up if you go that route.

I bought the mount and 80ED, flattener/reducer last week and that is ready to go unguided when the weather clears. Then once I have a bit of confidence polar aligning and doing shorter, unguided, subs so I will then buy the ST80 and ZWO camera and sart guiding.

Once I have a bit of confidence with that I plan to do plate solving and also to eventually get an ATIK 414 CCD.

Exciting isn't it :) :)

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Thanks for all of your responses so far. There is no substitute for experience and I will take onboard the advice (especially taking subtle steps rather than swamping myself with large leaps). I think the only reason that I was thinking about the ST80 for a guidescope was because I understand that many people use it for that purpose. I'm afraid it is no more scientific than that. A 9x50 Finderguider sounds interesting, I'll give that some thought.

Cheers

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Just another thought on the ST80 vs finderscope conversion...

I have also considered the finderscope as an alternative to the ST80 option but I have decided against it for me... not because there is anything wrong with it - it seems like a good choice as it keeps the weight down and reduces flexure issues etc and it is a cheap but effective option - however, I have decided to go with the ST80 as it then gives me a reasonable grab-and-go scope as well. I have decided that I might get the table-top kit ST80 from FLO so I get a little table-top tripod, diagonal, eyepiece etc for not much more than the OTA.

On the issue of OTA vs kit... I got the 80ED kit from FLO which also included a diagonal, finderscope, eyepiece and a nice carry case. It is a bit more than the OTA alone but if you ever want to use it for visual use then you will need the other bits anyway and the case being included is a great option to at the price.

I just emailed FLO and told them what I wanted to do and they gave me a shopping list. I can't say enough good about FLO :)

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  • 1 month later...

Right, I've purchased pretty much everything that I said I would (except for the QHY5-II) and have been very happy. I have been lucky and had a fair few clear(ish) nights and I am happy with my initial results (unguided and I'm sure they have all of the hallmarks of a beginner).

So, my next question comes to autoguiding. The images in my album are all 1 minute and stacked (except M13 which is just a raw image enhanced in photoshop), and I'm now keen to add an autoguider. I've read a number of posts on various forums with people having various problems with different cameras but the one that people seem to be most happy with is the Lodestar X2. Is there any advice in this area, as this is obviously one of the more expensive options?

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Right, I've purchased pretty much everything that I said I would (except for the QHY5-II) and have been very happy. I have been lucky and had a fair few clear(ish) nights and I am happy with my initial results (unguided and I'm sure they have all of the hallmarks of a beginner).

So, my next question comes to autoguiding. The images in my album are all 1 minute and stacked (except M13 which is just a raw image enhanced in photoshop), and I'm now keen to add an autoguider. I've read a number of posts on various forums with people having various problems with different cameras but the one that people seem to be most happy with is the Lodestar X2. Is there any advice in this area, as this is obviously one of the more expensive options?

I have just purchased the x2. There have been quite a few posts about concerns relating to the very delicate nature of the mini USB port on it. Have a read up on them before you buy. I also have the original Loadstar. Great piece of kit. It has the same USB port. On both I use a home made support for the USB cable. Basically a piece of pipe fitted over the body of the camera with a cut out that stands up to support the cable. I will be making new ones for both the cameras out of stainless steel. Works a treat. The intention is to leave them on permanently with the cable plugged in and tied permanently to prevent stressing or breakage of the USB connection. What ever anyone says it probably is the most sensitive camera out there and very small. It is also a very sensitive imaging camera although low resolution and uncooled but quite low noise.

Derek

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Great kit you've purchased there - Nothing wrong with jumping in with both feet!!

Regarding the guide camera - I used to use a QHY5 and it worked well. Then ....... I went for a long focal length scope and needed an OAG (Off Axis Guider) instead of a finder guider. In the way that the OAG's work I had a much smaller choice of guide stars and needed a more sensitive camera, so I bought the Lodestar (V1 as V2 wasn't out then).

The Lodestar is brilliant (as mentioned the mini USB issue above) - I would say that you would benefit from future proofing yourself for the future and I'd get a Lodestar. You never know if 2 years down the line you want to try longer focal lengths and need an OAG. Get it if you can afford to and only buy once!

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Ok, the X2 it is (and a cable tie as well!).

Don't forget the first version of the Loadstar. A good second hand one will save money and regardless of the adverts I don't think there is much difference between X1 and x2 versions. I have both but haven't as yet fully tested the x2 version. One comparison on the web suggests that x2 is no better for sensitivity. Regardless though a great camera for imaging or guiding.

Derek

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I suppose because of reputation, and perhaps price, the Lodestar is generally viewed as a step up from the QHY5L-II mono, however tests run by Frank, the developer of Metaguide result in the attached chart.

post-37593-0-48679000-1433984346.jpg

Interesting? Lodestar has much bigger pixels.

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My only concern with the QHY5L-II is that the impression I get from reading various forums is that some people seem to have issues with either aquiring and maintaining a guide star and/or software comparability issues (more than with the X2 anyway). That is only my interpretation of what I have read and therefore may not be a valid comment.

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My only concern with the QHY5L-II is that the impression I get from reading various forums is that some people seem to have issues with either aquiring and maintaining a guide star and/or software comparability issues (more than with the X2 anyway). That is only my interpretation of what I have read and therefore may not be a valid comment.

I have had driver issues using it with Firecapture, fortunately not what I bought it for. As a guide cam, it's brilliant with PHD2. The smaller pixels mean a wider FOV than Lodestar, and the chart above explains itself about sensitivity.

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