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QHY8L


jaygpoo

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I need some help please. I have been taking lots of deep space images of M51/m13/m33 etc but I never seem to get a colour image even though the camera is a colour ccd.  When I stack in dss there is a de-bayer setting the I tick . I take my stacked image to SC6 and start to stretch etc but apart from going purple in the background the central image never shows any sign of colour.  Targets like the Heart Nebular with is red area is looking impossible . So do I have to convert to Mono with colour filters which I did not want in the first place .

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This will simply be down to debayering or some other simple choice in your stacking programme. I don't use DSS so I can't advise specifically.

One thing you do usually need to do with OSC camera data is determine the particular Bayer pattern on your chip. In other words your software needs to know which colour is over, say, the top left hand corner pixel and how the rest of the array is arranged. The pattern distribution can vary so the software needs this information in order to ascribe green to the green channel, red to the red etc. Sometimes the software has a database of cameras with known distribution, sometimes you do it by trial and error, as I did while using OSC in AstroArt.

I'm sure a user of this camera and DSS will come along and reveal all. I strongly suspect it will be no big deal.

Olly

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Thanks for your comments. I am running the ccd in 1x1 which is colour mode and I have now changed the camera setting  from qhy8  with the L missing to GBRS.  I still need to know what may be obvious . I order to get max colour deffinition from data and processing do you need long exposures ? Finally if I use Nebulosity to operate my qhy8L there is a box in the advanced section that you can tick or leave which is to switch the amp on !!!! what is that and should it be on or off for my QHY8L ?    Many thanks for all your time.  Jay

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Hi

Have you set the gain and offset? You should do this once then not change again (see the manual - http://qhyccd.com/file/repository/PDF/QHY8L%20user%20manual.pdf). I used EZCap for that.

Yes you need long exposures - at least, you want to be exposing for a number of minutes once you've cooled to a stable working temperature. Make sure you have the latest drivers - there was a problem with amp glow and overscan at one time. There is still a problem with amp glow but darks will cancel it. It's really only a problem with 600s, or greater, sub lengths, I think (not used mine in a while!). I use APT (Astrophotography Tool) for image capture and cooling control. With PHD2 for guiding plus Stellarium, and Astrotortilla for precise gotos - all work well together with Ascom platform installed :)

Louise

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