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William Optics Binoviewer, is this right??


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I bought a pet of William Optics Binoviewers about a week ago and when I tried them out with my 8SE, I was a bit disappointed with the view.  Jupiter looked nice through both eye pieces, but if I had both eyes open at the same time I basically had double vision; i.e., I saw two copies of Jupiter.  I did quite a bit of playing about with the Bionviewers to try and improve this situation, but I always had two images of Jupiter.  Is this what I should be expecting, as I was hoping they would act like a pair of binoculars where you just see one thing?  Any advice on what I might be doing wrong, if two images is not what I should be expecting to see?

Cheers,

Dave :)

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Hi Dave, when your out the next time, not sure what EPs your using, try to make sure that you have seated them correctly when tightening the screws to secure them in place, try and put a little downward pressure on the EPs when securing, would be better if you can try them out on the moon first, this way the FOV is illuminated better, so you can set the width of the Binoviewer to get the correct circles to merge into just one circle when viewing with both eyes, using an higher power on the moon will allow you to illuminate the whole field,as this is difficult when having a bright Jupiter just in the middle of the FOV.

Paul.

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I bought a pair of Revelation ones with 20mm plossls, had the same problem, found it easier to start with them off the scope to get one image with both eyes, still couldn't get on with them though, will try again sometime before I sell them.

Dave

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thats not right Dave,you should only have one image.As you have not mentioned what eye pieces you where using,i can only guess the cause.

1,Eye piece was too powerfull and as a result you have merging issues and seeing 2 images.

2.Binos where too wide apart and not matching your eyes? try moving them closer (closing the binoviewer) to see if that improves your viewing.

Binoviewing on telescope is practically the same as using normal binos,nothing more or nothing less.

Try using lower power eye pieces like 20mm to see if you are still getting double image,if you are not,then you are on right track and if you want and have other pairs of Ep`s,you can try upping up the power.There will be some point where you will get double image as there are limitations on every binoviewer and prisms in it.

P.S. however,there are people who cant get on with binoviewers.

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Some people just don't get on with binoviewers or binoculars. For me, it is really important to get the inter-ocular distance correct and the individual focus for each eyepiece correct. The WO binoviewers have diopters on each eyepiece holder to adjust focus so they are matched to your eyes. Worth trying these first before you despair.

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Thanks for all the replies.  It is the supplied 20 mm eyepieces which I have been trying out the binoviewers with.  Next time out the moon should be high, assuming the weather is not going to be too be bad for too long, I will try them with this as the target and try moving them up & down.  NB.  When I used them first time round I just had it inserted into my Baader ClickLock 2" Dielectric Star Diagonal with a1.25" adaptor.  Maybe I should just try it out with my basic 1.25" diagonal?

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I use mine with a 2" diagonal for strength. The supplied eyepieces are pretty good. Just make sure you get the inter-ocular distance and individual eyepiece focus right.

I managed to get the individual eyepieces in focus at the same time, but what do you mean by inter-ocular distance correct?

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I managed to get the individual eyepieces in focus at the same time, but what do you mean by inter-ocular distance correct?

distance between eye pieces is inter ocular distance. or other words:distance between your eyes.Too wide and you will not see properly,too narow and you will not be able to get your nose in between :) this also determines your image.As i said,try closing and opening your binos to get them perfect.

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Okay, I did try closing and opening the binoviewers quite alot, but it did not improve the split image.  I think next time I am out I will have the moon as my target and try the binoviewers on all of my scopes and see if I can get a better view.  I might have just been having an off day when I tried it last Thursday  :lipsrsealed:

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I have no problem using normal bino's, the Revelation ones are very stiff adjusting the inter ocular distance and don't move symetrically so one side moves in and out but not the other unless you force it.

Dave

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Is the image just split left/right, or is there a up/down split? I ask because I had this issue with my TS jobs (they're all the same) and it was cured by lightly applying a bending force to the two EP holders until the image merged. You won't be able to do this unless the BVs are in the scope as you require a focused image to merge.

Russell

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And you can test them during the day, you don't have to wait til night time..:)

Find an aerial mast or pylon to focus on, just needs to be distant enough for the object to come to clear focus. As Dude says it's very like using binoculars. Try opening ip the viewers until they are wide apart, then focus each side individually until each barrel is sharply focussed..then slowly move the barrels closer together and you should suddenly see the two images merge together as one clear image just like in binoculars.

If you still see a double image it sounds like a fault, and I would return them for a replacement set..you might have been unlucky as WO and Baader quality and build is usually a bit above the cheaper brands even though the basic design is almost identical..otyou could just be one of the unlucky few who can't merge images..

Good luck!

Dave

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Okay, I did try closing and opening the binoviewers quite alot, but it did not improve the split image. I think next time I am out I will have the moon as my target and try the binoviewers on all of my scopes and see if I can get a better view. I might have just been having an off day when I tried it last Thursday :lipsrsealed:

I have the Baader Maxbrights - essentially the same - both are just rebranded I believe. I use a 2.5x GPC in a 250px f4.7, with 25mm and 15mm EP pairs. Sometimes I have to concentrate a little to merge the views properly when they are a little off - a bit like looking at those 3D pics where you cross your eyes a little and focus. However: I found it is worth it - I get the best planetary and lunar views this way. In my 15", I substitute the GPC with a 2.5x power mate - works well. Like someone else said some people don't get on with binos - I had read this before I got mine, and knew it was a bit of a gamble... Hope it comes good for you!

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