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Sony a7s and software control for tethering


vertigo262

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Does anyone know of anything that can control the a7s tethered?

in my research, this is what I found out. I can't seem to find much to control the a7s. And I noticed APT is possibly supporting it in the future.

But for now, I found 2 utilities. One being the sony app. it will do sequencing with multiple shots. But bulb doesn't allow manual input of seconds.

the other is Phase one, Capture one pro 8.1 and above for sony. 

This will do tethered live view, and all the manual settings as well. But I have not figured out how to input bulb seconds and not sure if it allows it on that app either. If you can, it at least gives you the ability to live view tethered and take shots through your scope. But can't shoot in sequence of frames, I don't think, and not sure about manual bulb input.

I noticed some cooled and modified a7s's for sale. But what are they using to tether with and take the shots?

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I don't use Sony so can't assist with software I'm afraid.  However, it would be worthwhile purchasing an intervalometer from somewhere (fleabay or similar) if you have an external jack to plug one into on your camera.  I used one on my Canon before I got Back Yard Eos and it is easy to set up and use.  I'm pretty sure you can get them to fit most cameras with a socket to plug it into.

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Hi, I've had the Sony A7s for a little while, and found this great thread very useful. You need to install the standard sony remote software and then the freeware tools, then you can operate the cam remotely, setting the number of pics and exposures.

Inbuilt sony wifi in the cam can transmit liveview to a tablet, very snazzy. But I've found it doesn't transmit a zoomed view used for liveview focusing. But it's not a pain, the screen on the Sony is very clear and big enough to confirm composition and focus.

Here are a few pics I've taken with the cam, I love it.

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Hi, I've had the Sony A7s for a little while, and found this great thread very useful. You need to install the standard sony remote software and then the freeware tools, then you can operate the cam remotely, setting the number of pics and exposures.

the sony app, has bulb, but you have to hold the button down manually. how are you getting past 30 second exposures since you can't input the bulb seconds manually?

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Use PHDMax.  It interfaces to both PHD Guiding and Sony's remote control software to perform long exposures with dithering.

Mark

Hi Mark, 

That at least would solve the exposure time issue. Although when I try PHD Max, and put in multiple nbr, number of shots. For some reason it takes the first one, then just hangs and does not stop either. is this a glitch in the code or a setting?

almost seems like a code glitch

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That sounds unfortunate.  You are using bulb mode?  Long exposure noise reduction is switched off?  Otherwise the camera sits there doing nothing after the first exposure - performing the in-camera dark.  The reason I sent my Sony A5100 back was because it was impossible to switch of LENR.  So a 5 minute exposure always took 10 minutes, with half of that time spent not actually imaging!  Completely useless for the type of astrophotography I do.

I managed to borrow a modified A7S at the weekend and was so impressed with the image quality that I'm definitely going to buy one and mod it.  I currently use a modified Canon 350D and a modified Canon 550D.

I've always been disappointed with the Canon 550D compared with the Canon 350D because although it captures 1.3x as many photons per unit area in the green and blue pixels, the H-alpha response was no different.  However, comparing the modded A7S with the modded 350D, my measurements show it captures 2.3x as many photons per unit area in the green and blue pixels 2.0x as many in H-alpha - the H-alpha response was measured using an H-alpha filter filter and pointing both at a standard target. 

The thermal noise of the 550D was greater than the 350D, probably due to the increased number of pixels.  However comparing the A7S with the 350D after 2 hours of continuous imaging at 20C ambient temperature, the dark current per pixel of the A7S was one third of the 350D.  Measured by unit area of sensor, the A7S dark current is one sixth of the 350D, because of the larger pixel size.

The A7S has a sharp drop in read noise at ISO 2000 where it drops to 1.4e and the gain is approx. 1.06e/ADU at ISO 4000.  So I think the sweet spot for long exposure imaging is in the range ISO 2000-4000.  But if you go to higher ISOs, the read noise falls well below 1e.

This camera is quite extraordinary.  I think it will even blow most OSC CCD cameras out of the water unless you need the cooling because are imaging in warm ambient temperatures.  For instance my existing SX-M25C OSC only has a 1.1x improvement in sensitivity over the Canon 350D but this A7S is offering a 2x improvement.

Mark

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Hi, I've had the Sony A7s for a little while, and found this great thread very useful. You need to install the standard sony remote software and then the freeware tools, then you can operate the cam remotely, setting the number of pics and exposures.

Inbuilt sony wifi in the cam can transmit liveview to a tablet, very snazzy. But I've found it doesn't transmit a zoomed view used for liveview focusing. But it's not a pain, the screen on the Sony is very clear and big enough to confirm composition and focus.

Here are a few pics I've taken with the cam, I love it.

Lovely pix! Looking at your Rho Ophiuchi, 8 mins per sub? Therefore Silent Shutter mode (i.e. electronic shutter)? I'm still unclear on the A7s bulb-beyond-30sec capabilities. Was it cropped? I don't see any amp glow (which apparently the A7s is susceptible to).

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I don't see any amp glow (which apparently the A7s is susceptible to).

My thorough testing of thermal noise at 20C ambient showed no amp glow whatsoever.  But I deliberately used it in airplane mode i.e. wi-fi switched off.  Apparently wi-fi switched on, drains the battery much faster which probably means some component(s) getting warm.  I wonder if that could explain amp glow.

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Cheers. I'll give it a shot. My A7s is modded too with cooling (CentralDS). I hope to take it out soon but haven't thought of what presets to prepare for (e.g. white balance, silent shutter mode for more than 30 sec Bulb mode, what ISO to use...seems 2000 is the ideal recommendation, etc.).

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  • 2 weeks later...

That sounds unfortunate.  You are using bulb mode?  Long exposure noise reduction is switched off?  Otherwise the camera sits there doing nothing after the first exposure - performing the in-camera dark.  The reason I sent my Sony A5100 back was because it was impossible to switch of LENR.  So a 5 minute exposure always took 10 minutes, with half of that time spent not actually imaging!  Completely useless for the type of astrophotography I do.

Yes, it is on bulb, and NR is off. It only seems to take 1 picture. then waits forever :(

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Yes, it is on bulb, and NR is off. It only seems to take 1 picture. then waits forever :(

My A7S is working fine with PHDMax and the Sony Remote Camera Control.  I did a quick imaging run a couple of nights ago with 5 minute exposures and successful dithering. 

What happens if you manually do a long exposure in bulb mode with the Sony RCC software but without PHDMax?

Mark

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In sony remote, I have to hold the shutter button down, and when I let go, it finishes the picture. That seems to work fine. PHDMAX seems to take 1 picture. then do nothing after, even though I set it to multiple exposures.

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Is it possible you've ticked the PHDMax box to "Wait for file arrival" but the "Picture Detect" path never has anything arrive?   So PHDMax just sits waiting forever for a file arrival that never happens?

By the way, I am also having a different problem.  Sometimes PHDMax "releases" the Bulb button and the exposure finishes prematurely.  It usually seems to happen when I try to move a window during an exposure.

Mark

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