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Power Supply for a SynScan GOTO on a Skywatcher EQ5


Vortexical

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Hi all,

I've just upgraded my EQ5 mount to the full motorized SynScan version.  I've had a successful afternoon of putting everything together - with thanks in no small part to this forum as usual - and am now left with figuring out a solution for a power supply.  You'll know already that it requires a 12V DC supply with a 'car cigarette lighter' type port.  Curious to know what other people use for power in this situation - is there some kind of popular rechargeable battery pack that connects to this?

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I started out using my car jump starter, which i already owned. It is a 20 amp hour one. I'd re-charge it after every use. If you are just powering motors for one aession this option would be fine. But if going to start powering orher things too, you need more juice.

The celestron power tanks are a similar things, about 20 amp hours again i think.

The leisure battery is probably the "gold standard" as you can get themwith a large capacity, 100 amp hours or more, and they can tolerate being more deeply discharged. But are heavy and not cheap. You'd also need to get a trickle charger to keep it topped up.

If you have a friendly garage you could see if tey have any batteries they are waiting for the junk man to pick up, but which are still reasonable for your needs. Ideally take a multimeter with you and get the one with a resting voltage as high as possible and above 12v if possible. These can vary from 40 tonover hundred amp hours again, but do not like being deeply discharged, and you'll also need to get a trickle charger, and they contain acid and youmll need to make up some connectors and a box.

Or use mains, and get a 12v output device, or whatever the motora want. But riaks lf damp and mains, and wires in the dark...

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Somehong like these:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251341927507?nav=SEARCH

And something like this:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/331367890938?nav=SEARCH

But you need to check the kit can takr te laods you are going to be needing.

It mught be worthwhile pitting a fuse in too:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251528667018?nav=SEARCH

But change the actual fise for a 3-5 amp one (read the specs about your motors).

And then put it all in a box:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131444198237?nav=SEARCH

These are all just to should you rough ideas, i've not looked at the specs of any of these and you'd need to do some research.

James

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:) my typing is awful on my phone, sorry for the typos. But to be fair my spelling is rubbish at the best of times :)

Good luck and don't spend a fortune. If you are just powering the two motors, and can charge reasonably frequently, there is nothing wrong with a car battery.

I'd aim for 20 amp hours as a minimum. 110 amp hour batteries can be massive and weight a ton.

If you can, insulate your battery in the box to stop it getting very cold when outside. Not sure how well insulation works, but might as well give it a go to help the bTtery.

Also will need one of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0012U5BO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427394469&sr=8-1π=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=trickle+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=61llosKhBVL&ref=plSrch

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I use this golf trolley battery, because they are designed for deep cycle, which car batteries definitely are not. I bought a set of Torberry connectors and jammed them on to the end of a lead with a fuse in it. I use this bulk/float charger from the same source, which again comes with Torberry connectors.

The reason I like the Torberry connectors, is that they're a good connection, but will pull apart rather than pull your scope over, if you trip over them. Also, you can't connect them the wrong way round in the dark.

Russell

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The issue about deep discharge and car batteries won't apply if you are just powering the mount and can charge it after a few sessions. The problem comes when one tries to run dew controllers, cameras, laptops etc, as they all cause rhe battery to discharge more deeply.

As i say, you can get an old car battery for free from your garage, it just depends how tight money is.

The issue of polarity is very important, which is why it is best not to be needing to fiddle with the actual terminals at night, and only have sockets on show which won't allow you to get pilaroty wrong in the dark.

James

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I've got it's big brother:

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/skywatcher-powertank-17ah.html

I know they don't have a huge fan base but I'd like to say a few words in their defence :D

I only have the mount and more recently a Raspberry Pi running off mine but in frosty conditions it's not shown any signs of the voltage dropping off after running for 4 or 5 hours.

It suits me! It's compact, easy to carry and has all manner of power connections built in. Plus a Siren ?? (to scare off the bogey man??)

No good for a hard core imager but fine for casual visual observing.

After years of abuse my back is maybe 20 years older than the rest of me. I have a definite lifting limit which I can't argue with any longer! A big leisure battery would be lovely but I'd spend a week in traction after carrying it  :eek:  Your back may vary :)

I do have the mains power supply that came with the NEQ6 mount but would only use that in dry conditions. It doesn't offer the other connection options either.

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The car jump starters are good (as long as they have the correct 12v socket), but are usually only 12-17 amp hours (my halfords one is 20 amp hours) and quite expensive per amp hour compared to other options. But if not drawing a lot of current are a convienent, if not pricy, way around the problem. And can be kept in the car for car emergencies too. Must be re-charged and kept topped up else the internal battery won't like it.

James

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