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heads up for cheap new sammy 2000 on fleabay £36 inc


stash_old

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You'll need a C-thread to 1.25" nosepiece.  You may also consider an IR/UV blocking filter and a focal reducer, but that can come later :)

Anodized aluminium nosepiece here..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C-Mount-Adapter-Adaptor-from-1-25-to-C-Mount-Thread-TS1-C-Connector-New-/370782587873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56545d4be1

Or you can get a resin one (absolutely fine) on Astroboot usually for a few quid less...

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Hi Stash,

That's a great deal!

In response to Big, it's a good idea to remove the IR filter that comes with it . It's an easy process that can be found described on many other forum posts. A good astro UV/IR filter can then be used, but isn't absolutely necessary.

Also, there are cheap remote controllers for it to eliminate the need to press the buttons on the back. I'm sure someone like Davy will post here to direct you. I believe the controller connects into the video signal cable.

Besides the nosepiece, you just need a power cord and composite video cable to connect to a monitor and you're set to go. If you want to capture images, you need a video capture device that connects the composite to USB for your computer. There's free software all over to capture video and stills. The 2000 PAL version will give you about 10 seconds of integration time that will be sufficient for many DSO's.

Hope this helps. Any question, just post them here.

Don

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Hi Everyone. First post and new user of the forum, but very interested in the whole Video Astronomy topic, and I am looking into the nature of the Samsung SCB-2000P camera and its adaption to astro-imaging.  My question concerns the nature of the output signal from the camera.  This appears to be via what I know as an RF connector which I am assuming is giving an analogue composite signal.  I would like to know if there is any way to convert this signal to a suitable digital one for input to a PC or laptop. i.e via USB or HDMI.  I am a complete novice on the technical aspects of video technology, so any advice would be much appreciated!  

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SkySpy,

Yes, the output is an analogue composite SD signal. You need a BNC to RCA adapter and then just use a standard phono cable to connect to the video input of your TV monitor. If you want to connect to a computer, you need a video capture device like the one in this link.

http://www.telescope.com/Orion-Video-Capture-Device/p/101468.uts?keyword=Video%20capture%20device

There are a number of these on the market, but I got this one because I wanted to make sure it works with a Mac. It comes with software, but there are a number of freeware programs that do a better job. The 2000 is SD. The HD cams are not sensitive enough and don't have the integration times to view DSO's. They will, however, work well for lunar and planetary viewing.

Don

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Thanks Don, great information. :smiley:  I have purchased one of the £30 2000P cameras plus necessary capture card and adapter etc (so thanks too to stash_old for the heads up!).  I have found some free online video capture software (NCH Debut) which I assume will serve as a software interface.  I also found a great link to another SL member (Dragon Man) on removing the IR filter and housing -

see: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/196751-samsung-scb-2000-and-sdc-435-ir-filter-removal/  

One small question I still have is:  Is there a limitation on the length of the BNC to RCA extension cable?  I want the option to have the laptop fairly remote from the telescope and wondered if there is any kind of potential issue with signal attenuation etc.

Apart from that I cant wait to try it out, and obviously I will feedback the results.  Look forward to any and all other contributions to the subject. Clear skies everyone.

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SkySpy,

I use Debut as well. I'm testing an inexpensive HD cam right now for lunar and planetary. Debut handles all types of HD video format and I like it the best of the capture programs I've tried. I'll be starting a thread on the camera soon, so stay tuned.

I'm not sure on the video signal cable length. I found this paper on it that sounds credible and informative. There is signal loss that can be reduced by using certain types of cable. Perhaps someone else can chime in on their experience.

http://www.kramerelectronics.com/downloads/manuals/cable.pdf

Don

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I bought one to have a tinker with.  I probably have a PCI TV card that I can use with it and if so I'll try to get it working on Linux with oaCapture.  Not sure I can do the same on OSX though.  At least, not in the near future.

James

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Thanks again Don. The article re-assures me that for the lengths of cable I may use (no more than 3-5 mtrs) there should not be any issues. I have tech specs for the 2000P but it does not mention output impedance so I will just have to go with standard cable and hope for the best.  

Great to know that you have tested and approve of the Debut software; it was just plain luck that I happened upon it as the first one to try.  

Look forward to hearing your results on the use of the HD Cam for planetary work.  Maybe being fanciful here but could be great if it works, especially if you could pump the output into some anti-scintillation type software (i.e like the big toys use for atmospheric compensation).  I don't know if anyone has produced such software for the amateur but if they did and you had a powerful enough processor you could get some knockout images!  :grin:

SkySpy

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Skyspy,

I have used both the sammy and my ln300(mod to do remote) at over 30m and seems ok. I use cat5(ln300) and bnc(50-ohm) shogun type(power and video in one set cable). Buy RG59 or RG6 for longer runs  - My security camera's are at 50m and seem ok. Worse problem I have found are RCA Phono connectors that Frame Grabbers seem to use - I end up hot glueing BNC adapters to them to make them more secure. The longer runs do effect the remote control on the sammy -i find it becomes sluggish in response but usable. You could of course use a DVR at the mount and then its CAT5 networking limits(100m) but you do loose remote control - unless someone has a solution to this ?

Hope that helps - have fun

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Just a couple of tips.

AstroAdam makes a point of saying that 'Resin' Nose-piece adaptors are "absolutely fine". Unfortunately they are not.

The Nosepiece adaptor acts as a Heat Sink to help take heat away from the sensor by transferring a lot of the heat into the metal of the Focuser tube making the whole scope a heat sink. Resin is a lousy conductor. Use a metal nose-piece to help reduce heat and noise.

And if you use composite cable, it can happily run at 100 feet.

I am currently running all my cables at 75 feet without any loss. (Composite for video feed, RS232 computer control cable, Cat5 Mount control, Telephone cable for focuser power)

If you choose to buy a decent Video Grabber, try avoid the cheapies on ebay.

If you don't want to pay top dollar at least get a genuine EzCap, not the chinese copy on Ebay called easycap.

The 'real' EzCap is based in UK, here: http://www.ezcap.tv/usb-video-capture/ezcap116-capture-card

Other Grabbers also work OK, but just avoid the real cheapie ones.

You might also gain some ideas about scopes, focal reducers, filters, etc from my Video Astronomy website: http://ballaratman.wix.com/videoastronomy

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Just a couple of tips.

AstroAdam makes a point of saying that 'Resin' Nose-piece adaptors are "absolutely fine". Unfortunately they are not.

The Nosepiece adaptor acts as a Heat Sink to help take heat away from the sensor by transferring a lot of the heat into the metal of the Focuser tube making the whole scope a heat sink. Resin is a lousy conductor. Use a metal nose-piece to help reduce heat and noise.

And if you use composite cable, it can happily run at 100 feet.

I am currently running all my cables at 75 feet without any loss. (Composite for video feed, RS232 computer control cable, Cat5 Mount control, Telephone cable for focuser power)

If you choose to buy a decent Video Grabber, try avoid the cheapies on ebay.

If you don't want to pay top dollar at least get a genuine EzCap, not the chinese copy on Ebay called easycap.

The 'real' EzCap is based in UK, here: http://www.ezcap.tv/usb-video-capture/ezcap116-capture-card

Other Grabbers also work OK, but just avoid the real cheapie ones.

You might also gain some ideas about scopes, focal reducers, filters, etc from my Video Astronomy website: http://ballaratman.wix.com/videoastronomy

Interesting point about the resin nosepieces Ken! - not something I considered I must admit!

I was thinking structurally etc rather than heat-wise - very good point though!

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hi guys..the Samsung scb2000 as we all know is he one camera we should all have at some stage,,its just that good a camera to have,,cheap and cheerfull and we can do a lot with it,,nice solid camera,easy to remove the factory filter,,cooling fans added improves them even more and with a utc (up the coaxial controller) you can change menu settings remotely.

agree with ken a good adapter is a must,,look out for a c to t adapter fantastic keeps everything solid on scope.

av feed from camera to scope,,i have tried a few cables rca with bnc adapters..found on longer runs I was getting slight phase lines on screen,,not shielded enough

shotgun cable was worse..( power and av cable as one cable)

my pref plain old coaxial cable with bnc connections

attatch this to a up the coxial controller at pc and its ideal as a remote control set up

scb2000 is an analogue camera feeding the signal through a usb grabber changes this to a digital signal

easycap is a great capture device,but I also use a cctv d1 4 channel dvr with a 1.5 tb hard drive,,,,brilliant for multiple camera captures

davy

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AstroAdam makes a point of saying that 'Resin' Nose-piece adaptors are "absolutely fine". Unfortunately they are not.

The Nosepiece adaptor acts as a Heat Sink to help take heat away from the sensor by transferring a lot of the heat into the metal of the Focuser tube making the whole scope a heat sink. Resin is a lousy conductor. Use a metal nose-piece to help reduce heat and noise.

I'm struggling to get my head around how this is really a benefit.  I'm not saying isn't true.  Just that I don't understand it :)

As far as I can see from the pictures of disassembled cameras (I don't have mine yet, so I have to go by the pictures), the camera sensor is on a small PCB mounted in the front of the camera body.  It appears to have some sort of shroud holding the IR filter in place which doesn't make contact with any other part of the camera in any significant way.  In fact the only place where it appears that heat might be able to conduct from the camera sensor to anywhere else is through the corners of the PCB via the screws holding it in place to the metal camera body.

Assuming there's much heat transferred that way (which I do struggle to believe, I have to admit), the camera body looks like it might well radiate that away fairly well.  Similarly with heat radiated by the sensor that warms the camera body directly.

A C-mount to 1.25" adaptor looks like it would only make contact with the camera body, which would allow it to conduct some heat away, potentially via the OTA.  However, because it can't be an interference fit in the drawtube I don't think there'll be much conduction between the drawtube and the adaptor.  Also, the drawtube itself will make minimal contact with the focuser body, again significantly limiting conduction.  And an IR/UV cut filter on the adaptor is likely to severely restrict heat radiation, too.

Perhaps it will become obvious when mine turns up...

James

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hi james, the scb2000 I have I done tests on the heat side of things..the camera running for twenty minutes had an increase of seven degrees above ambient tempreture and as you say the heat will disssepate through the body of the camera, so when the camera is fitted to the scope the heat is drawn to the cold ie the telescope focus draw tube. this will help cool the camera,,,ok the cooling is not going to be dramatic but every bit helps..i personaly have looked into the cooling of the camera via fans and have fitted a 40mm x 40mm fan fitted internally blowing the hot away from the sensor,i have also fitted a 40mm x 40mm to top of camera casing, 18mm x 18mm fans fitted to either side of the outer casing...

using sharpcap I ran a twenty minute test with fans off and it dropped a hundred odd frames camera ran seven degrees above ambient temp..camera at ambient temp,it was run again for twenty minutes running fan mod,,no frames were dropped and camera stayed at ambient temp..all tests were carried out using a fluke digital temp sensor..hope this helps.

davy

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Ive tried peltier cooling mods and never had great success. .the heatsink and fans were getting bigger to compensate bigger peltier device to get camera colder..my personal thoughts are four fans running removing seven degrees and bringing camera to ambient temp is fine also removes the condensation that appears with peltier cooling.

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Re the Samsung 2000P shirva states... "with a utc (up the coaxial controller) you can change menu settings remotely."

Could I ask shirva (or anyone else) to elaborate on how to control the menu on the 2000P remotely.   What is a "utc" and what exactly does "up the coaxial controller mean"?

What form does the remote control take?   Is it hardware / software (or both?)

BTW - Be warned the guy selling the cheap sammy 2000's on ebay (which started the post) cant deliver.  I ordered one and two weeks later no show. If believed he is in Thailand until at least 13th of May and even then cant promise delivery yet his ebay ad is still up showing delivery in a few days.  I have ordered from elsewhere and processing a refund.  Just thought you should know!

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HiloDon

Your a star!  

Explained exactly. 

The self same unit is available here too:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UTC-Controller-for-CCTV-Security-Surveillance-Cameras-BNC-Coaxial-Remote-UK-/151561908682?

and apparently the key thing is the camera has to be  "Coaxitron compliant" which fortunately the Samsung 2000P is (or at least accrding to numerous Cloudy Skies forums I have seen).  

As a video newbie I am still none the wiser how the unit is either powered or encodes itself to the camera.. but the fact that it does is all that matters I suppose! 

Thanks again.

SkySpy

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BTW - Be warned the guy selling the cheap sammy 2000's on ebay (which started the post) cant deliver.  I ordered one and two weeks later no show. If believed he is in Thailand until at least 13th of May and even then cant promise delivery yet his ebay ad is still up showing delivery in a few days.  I have ordered from elsewhere and processing a refund.  Just thought you should know!

That's well out of order.  He admitted that when you complained about non-delivery, I assume?

James

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Well I ordered one(another) and received it 3 days later in fully working order - I am not related to nor am I the seller nor even know the person(he/she). Agree with James you can tell us your woes but don't go over the top. 

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