Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

Jupiter Processing Help!


Astrosurf

Recommended Posts

I have lots of vids of Jupiter with Io's shadow. I did wonder if the vids were too long - not done this with a moon's shadow before. Sure enough, the shadow is smeared, and that's with 3000 frames. I also took 5000 frames as the detail on Jupiter is best. How can I stop the smearing, if possible? Maybe use sw to split the vids and stack shorter vids?

Alexxx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A nice image, looks like a few blury frames probably causing the smearing, I don't know how long the runs were but rotation blur can be a problem with long capture times unless using winjupos derotation software, also have you tried registax 6 auto align - colour balance!

Ive posted an example of your image using this program no other processing was applied!

post-16599-0-76643300-1425146086.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I got quite a good image a few days ago with 5000 frames. Might have been the seeing and even my scope possibly not being exactly in focus. Your image does look a bit clearer.

I had a look at WinJupos and balked. It looks horribly complicated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried stacking with AutoStakkert!2? http://www.autostakkert.com/wp/ I find that it does a better job of that bit than Registax. Then take the tif file into Registax for the wavelets.

There is a good tutorial on the AS!2 website that will get you going. Despite the initial fright of the software, it's really quite simple to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 more for Autostakkert.... If you want to image jupiter then really your AVI needs to take into account the speed of rotation (if you don't want to use WINjupos). I usually work out the image capture times using the apparent diameter of the planet at the time I am imaging, and change the timing accordingly (also based upon the resolution of the scope) as well...think it used to work out something like this:

T [min] (this is the imaging time) = resolution of the instrument [arcsec] / (Pi * apparent diameter of the planet [arcsc] / rotation period of the planet [min])

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, had a goat AS!2 and I'm tremendously impressed! Roll on Emil! I've attached a screenshot of my settings. The 80% stack was best as it has less graininess. I could have pushed the Wavelets more but I like Jupiter to be soft. I drew a lot of manual alignment points of various sizes and overlapped them a lot as you can see. What do you think??

post-1704-0-90299300-1425413226_thumb.jp

post-1704-0-92825000-1425413637.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, had a goat AS!2 and I'm tremendously impressed! Roll on Emil! I've attached a screenshot of my settings. The 80% stack was best as it has less graininess. I could have pushed the Wavelets more but I like Jupiter to be soft. I drew a lot of manual alignment points of various sizes and overlapped them a lot as you can see. What do you think??

attachicon.gif20_37_13_castr_g3_b3_ap16 AS2 Settings.jpg

attachicon.gifJupiter.jpg

Getting some good detail with AS!2 compared to R6, perhaps just stack 50 percent of the frames.   I'd also recommend setting the APs to 70 and avoiding placing them right at the edge of the planet.   With the wavelets and RGB align in R6 you can probably push this data quite a way.   Once you are happy stretch the histogram and clip the black point a little and save the image off for post processing in PS or Image Analyzer, where you can adjust the colour balance a tad.

Definitely going the right way with this, but don't be afraid to practice and experiment with the stack size and settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree about stacking only say 50% of the frames - maybes a bit less. My alignment points are around 45 in size. Plus, they overlap, covering all of the planet. It's OK to have a few of the boxes going across the edge of the planet, but you are advised to avoid the edge. Your captures looks bit green. I think there is a tool in Registax that can help with this (I can't remember the name off the top of my head - RGB something or other). You can sharpen quite aggressively in Registax. I often will have to add .15 - .20 of denoise, especially to the first two wavelets. I am sure that there is a bit more to be eked out from the video that you have. But it is looking pretty good so far - definitely worth a bit more work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent, definitely a step forwards!

Just watched an interesting programme on the Beeb about how our solar system formed with Jupiter being the playground bully tamed by Saturn to leave the Earth in tact for us to evolve and look out at that great big bully! Ugh, he's a stripey, spotty thug...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all! Will try all that. I did try 50% of frames and the detail was just a tad sharper but I had more noise. I'll try the Denoise there. I also did do the RGB Align but will sort the colour in PS once I've got the best result.

Gav, you made me laugh!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of good advice above, but I would add to that by saying the quality graph is an excellent tool to work out how much you really want to stack (in terms of number of frames) and stacking lower quality images in with the good stuff will only degrade the result. If you have less than 100 frames then it will be a pretty poor image to use in registax (or thats what I have found anyway!).  You can set the number of frames vs quality by using the slider at the top of the image window. You can slide that from left to right, and watch the quality decrease (in line with the graph...you will see a bar move along it). you can then decide if you stacked say only images that the software thinks are 75% or better quality...and look how many frames that is.if its under 100, then you need to add more frames, but be aware of the quality loss). I only ever go down to about 70%...if I have to go below that to get over 100 frames then the run is not worth the trouble...but that is just me being picky!) Have a play and see what works.

In terms of alignment points and numbers etc, there was an interesting article I found recently that kind of shows that letting AS2 sort the points out automatically did work better than manual drawing of points. Also the point size of around 50, seemed to produce much sharper images than smaller ones. Been trying this out and my images seem to have improved (though might just be me!) again give it a try...cant hurt.

Gnomus is talking about the RGB align and RGB balance features (both in Registax) very useful for when you have stacked your image and need to work on the TIF file. This is also what Si@nite (post number 4) was advising, and showed the improvement with the colour balance in his post above.

And you thought getting the data was the hard part ;-) remember every step you take it gets easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.