Andromeda fail.

[BillPickle]

so i took some shots of andromeda tonight.. the moon was very bright and i live in a fairly light polluted area.

Used an LPF and a st 80 to take the pics.

10x30s

10x45s

5x60s

and this is what came out.

I was expecting so much more... dunno what im doing wrong.

I also used 10 darks and 10 bias.

Any advice?

[BillPickle]

all at iso800

2 diff stacking attampts and ps attemps the first being the better id say i added a few flats but have a weird noise thing repeated across the image.

[wxsatuser]

Your going to need a lot more exposure and most likely wait for the moon to clear off.

[Marky1973]

Hey Bill, as a first effort, you are starting to get detail and there is some hint of the dust lanes. You are going to need longer exposures as Wxsatuser suggests as well as taking some flats to help with the vignetting (I think that is what it is called).

I had the same trouble as you with my first attempts at Andromeda, and experimented with flats. Have a look at this thread to see what a difference they can make.

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/227341-flower-pot-flats-the-test/?hl=%2Bflower+%2Bpot+%2Bflats#entry2451687

The "best" I've managed with Andromeda is 90s subs on my EQ3-2 and with some advice on these forums and some help with tweaking from Steve/Steppenwolf, I have managed to pull this picture out.

Actually, posting it, it is a bit over-cooked I think and taken before I had my flattener, so I still have a long way to go! I may have another go later in the year when it is back in a better position for me and I hope to have upgraded my mount. Andromeda needs longer sub to pull out the detail in the dust lanes and then short subs for the core so you don't blow that out, and then you need to combine both stacked images! 

But definitely have another go, and when the moon is hiding, so you can get more detail, longer exposures. Not sure what the max is on the Star Adventurer, but I presume you can get longer than 30 seconds?

Anyway, I wouldn't call it a fail. You found your target, got an image and are learning for the next attempt. It's all part of the fun!

Look forward to seeing what you can get next time!

[Ant]

The moon will be the primary cause I would think.

The moon increases the back ground sky glow, this effectively washes out the fainter outer parts of M31, meaning that no matter what you do you cannot differentiate between Galaxy and sky glow.

Do not be too disheartened, M31 (IMO) is one of the hardest targets because of its large dynamic range (I think that's the term).

Wait till the moon has gone, get LOTS of subs. Try for a minute but 30 seconds will do. I won SGLs picture of the week about 7 or 8 years ago using 100+ 30 second subs.

Remember if you can, get flats as well. You can get a decent flat by stretching a plain white T shirt over the end of the scope and pointing it at the sky (try to avoid direct sun). They will help.

Also consider a light pollution filter. For sub lengths under a couple of minutes the Skywatcher or Baader moon/sky glow filters work well.

Cheers

Ant

[Stargazer33]

First of all Bill that is a really good start! you have definitely captured some of the dust lanes in the top image. It's much better than my first M31 so don't be put off. All good advice above and keep trying. You will get there in the end. As in all things it's practice, practice, practice and experience. Good luck and clear skies!

[Astrosurf]

That's a good start. As had been said, it's a hard object to image because of the high dynamic range. The arms of the galaxy are pretty faint so would need longer exposures, which you might not be able to achieve with your set-up. So I would suggest increasing the ISO to 1600. My first image looked much the same until I stated guiding. Why not forget Andromeda and go for a brighter, easier target? You'll get much more satisfaction!

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Alexxx

[carastro]

Yes I'd agree with the advice above about longer exposures and the need to use flats.  However getting long exposures on an AZ mount will be tricky.  Also your LP and the Moon won't be helping.

Carole 

[BillPickle]

Thanks everyone, In the first image i did use 5 flats i took with the t shirt method. I was using a selection of darks and bias frames as well i built up the other day...

I took delivery of the synguider yesterday and planned to use it. i found a guide star no problem but it kept stalling the gears on my star adventurer for some reason(well i think it was stalling the lights kept flashing every few seconds but it seemed that the star stayed centered. 

The problem tho is i couldn't use my LPF on my camera as i used the st 80 as my guide scope with camera piggy backed and 250mm lens and the light pollution over 60 seconds left me with a terrible image.

i could have spent longer figuring it out but the sky was clear for 2 hrs and didnt wanna waste my window of opportunity.

Dark site next i think, once i figure out the syn guider and get a sky watcher 50mm guide scope and get to a dark site i may get better results.

[BillPickle]

Also... with careful alignment i have managed toget around 90 seconds with the star adventurer. 2 minutes and i noticed the stars starting to trail.

With the synguider im hoping to achieve 5 minutes as i live around an hours drive from some amazing dark sites including the galloway park

[Roy Challen]

Anyway, I wouldn't call it a fail. You found your target, got an image and are learning for the next attempt. It's all part of the fun!

Exactly. The OPs image looks better than my first attempt at M31, haven't even made a second attempt......yet. I find M81/82 much easier.

[BillPickle]

Exactly. The OPs image looks better than my first attempt at M31, haven't even made a second attempt......yet. I find M81/82 much easier.

M81/82 it is... I think i need to really study stellarium and the skys more.

I know where to look for andromeda and can find it no probs with a 25mm lens. Is the same true for M81/82?

[Geordie mc]

They are both in auras Major and quite easy to find. Take your darks at the time you take your lights. They need to be at the same temperature as well as exposure time. Flats can be taken later, but the camera needs to be in exactly the same orientation to the light frames. God start. Keep at it.