Camera moding!!!

[Craigyboy3542]

Hey all

I currently have a Canon 1100D which I am thinking about modding to use solely for astrophotography and landscape astrophotography i have looked on a website to get it done and it stats the following

4 questions...

1. Is it worth modding my camera?

2. Is this the correct mod i will need? (just want to confirm the website is correct..lol)

3. Will i need to use any kind of filter in the future??

4. I want buy a Canon light pollution clip filter but there are 2 available Astronomik CLS-CCD & Astronomik CLS which one will I need??

[ronin]

1: Yes it is the one as the present Canon filter blocks 80% of the HA that is often what is required.

2: Not sure if it is the "correct" mod needed - there is a filter that can be fitted in place of the existing one that has the cut off further down the IR. The option is therefore to have the present one removed and this other one put in. That way you have a filter and get the Ha. Do they not offer this option ? I think it is a Baader filter that is used as the replacement. Still means the camera is not really usable for normal photography.

3: Depends on what you want to allow through but that comes later.

4: Not a clue, likely depends on what the nature of what the LP actually is..

[Craigyboy3542]

Yes they do the following 

 The Mods...

When the rear filter only is removed, the autofocus is no longer as accurate as before the mod so we correct this by adjusting the position of the sensor by the use of smaller shims in fixed sensor cameras and by adjustment of the sensor's position in floating sensor cameras.

There are three types of mod available for dSLRs these are as follows:

Filter removal:

This involves removing the rear colour correcting filter and increases the camera's sensitivity to red light frequencies by between 4 and 5 times, meaning that the amount of Ha response on the sensor post mod for a 5 minute shot is equivalent to between 20 and 25 minutes of exposure before modding. If you intend to use a camera solely for astrophotography, this is the mod you should choose.

Full Spectrum mod:

A full spectrum mod is one where the full electromagnetic spectrum that the sensor is able to detect is allowed through with **NO FILTERING** - the sensor can detect light in far and near infrared and ultraviolet - to allow this full spectrum of light (visible and non-visible light) through, all filters must be removed. A camera modded thusly would require UV and IR filtering for use with anything other than a parabolic mirror system and would only normally be carried out if the photographer wishes to do either IR photography or spectrographic analysis using a diffraction grating.

Filter replacement with a Baader ACF or BCF filter:

As filter removal - the only difference is that as the rear filter is replaced with an equivalent thickness of glass, the refractive index of the material in the light path between lens and sensor remains the same so no autofocus adjustment is necessary - THERE ARE **NO** OTHER ADVANTAGES IN HAVING THE FILTER REPLACED OTHER THAN THE CAMERA'S AUTOFOCUS WILL STILL WORK SO IT CAN STILL BE USED FOR NORMAL PHOTOGRAPHY WITH AN APPROPRIATE AUTO-FOCUSING LENS AND A WHITE BALANCE CORRECTION.

Focusing post-mod.

The 100D, 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D, 50D, 60D, 70D, 7D and 5D all have floating sensors. The sensors are marked and the level is measured prior to dis-assembly and every effort is taken to accurately re-position the sensor post-mod, but it is impossible to restore focus as accurately as can be achieved during factory setup.

[D4N]

Yes you need to use a filter or you won't achieve focus. Your lens / scope aren't designed to bring IR light to the same focal point as visible light.

The Astronomik CCD CLS you mentioned would be appropriate, the non CCD version would not work for you as it doesn't block IR light.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Merlin66]

For astro work with a FULL full spectrum mod (both filters removed) all you might need is a UV-IR cut filter somewhere in the optical path.

If you want to use the std camera lenses then you need to compensate by adding an in-body filter element. This can be as simple as an Astronomik clip-in CLR (clear) filter.

I use my modded Canon for spectroscopy.

[SkySurfer]

Hi,

You are only going to remove one of the two filters Infront of the camera sensor, that is the mod you need to do as you said above,

The second filter is left in place in the camera, as this one does not block Ha, so is left in place, and also this filter, left in, blocks IR which is a bonus, so you DONT need the CCD version as you will already have the IR blocked, so no need to pay the extra for the CCD version, as the only difference is that the IR cut.

Now if you have a full spectrum mod, and remove both filters then the CCD version would be the one you would need for the extra IR cut.

Hope that helpd

SS

[hobsey]

Just digging up this thread as I'm looking at getting my 1100D modified.

I have read this thread over and over again and a number of websites and I still feel like I'm banging my head against a brick wall as I'm more confused than ever.

Could someone please give me a very idiot proof answer to my question?

What mod is it I need just to increase HA without using other filters for just camera lenses? I will not be using it for normal photography.

Is it just the filter removal mentioned in the first post?

[perfrej]

I took mine apart and took all filters out. It works. No AF, not good for daytime photography but fine for astro. You may need a blocking filter in your path though to restrict bandwidth.

/per

[Merlin66]

Anthony,

OK

To improve the red response ( i.e. Ha) you need to remove the filter element at the CCD. The front element can stay.

To be able to compensate for the change in focus with this filter removed (only really needed when you use standard camera lenses) you need to add back a piece of clear glass...

this can be a replacement "filter" - Baader etc. or just a clear clip in element like the Astronomik clip-in.

HTH

[hobsey]

That I can understand, thank you very much.

It was the front and rear filter thing confusing me.