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NEQ6 Latitude thread gone

neil phillips

By neil phillips
in Discussions - Mounts

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Hi Guys the thread on my NEQ6 latitude bolt hole, has become too loose and the bolt is no longer holding. I get the feeling a slightly larger bolt would work. But I am not sure, and I don't think those sizes exist ?

 FLO sent me a vid of the Helicoil thread repair kit

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQHRB2ElZJ0

I do have a drill, but don't normally do things like this so I am uneasy of making the situation worse,

Could I use this kit here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-Helicoil-Thread-Repair-Kit-M10-x-1-25-x-13-5mm-/310831825508

but with a lockable thread purchased elsewhere perhaps ? As on the youtube message board it mentions

If it's being used in a situation where the bolt is going to be removed several times you are better off thread locking the helicoil into the hole. 

Any help in understanding this much appreciated. I have as much Knowledge on threads or metal work as I do brain surgery.

The problems seemed to have happened after I had the Gunner mod fitted the bolt was going under the lug initially

Would the swarf and tang going into the mount cause a problem as I don't really want to start opening the mount to repair this.

I have read of tangless threads. But have no idea if this is a better option.

Once again cheers for any info on helping me sort this problem

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lardy

lardy

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Hi Neil,

Helicoil is a great way for repairing damaged / stripped threads, and in many cases will be stronger than the original parent material .. Many companies use them as standard on alloy parts.

I have used Helicoil many times repairing Diesel generator engines in-situ. Hand drilling should not be a problem as the drill will follow the threaded hole you want to repair, just be careful to maintain the angle of approach.

Looking at the kit, the Tap is a #2 or a bottoming Tap used to thread blind holes, it has no taper on the first 2/3's which could cause you problems ..  A #1 Tap   (taper) allows the end of the tap to locate in the hole and provides a "soft start" only achieving full thread on the final third of the tap (not knowing your mount i presume it is not blind and there is enough room to run the tap to full length) ... it kinda follows the hole insuring a good thread.

I seem to remember when working in engineering that the kits I used had #'s 1,2+3 taps... quick note these Taps are unique for Helicoiling.

The only other problem I can see is the length of the insert being to long on your mount .... Use an insert and screw it in, measure whats sticking out and cut another insert to length (dremmal and slitting disc) the cut has to be clean and not distort the insert ... screw out the measuring insert (just wind it all the way through (do not try and wind it out) then insert your modified  insert, break of the driving tang using tool provided and Walla! all fixed :grin:

Time to do with the correct tap about 15 / 20 mins

Or take it to an Engineering firm lol

Hope this helps

Mark

Just Mooched on the internet and cannot find any #1 taps for Helicoiling ... I might be mistaken.  using a bottoming tap to start and cut a thread just takes a bit more care ... maintain the angle of attack at 90 degrees to the hole and provide firm pressure to start cutting those first few threads, use lubricant (thread cutting paste should be used) and back off a half a turn for every full turn (this cuts the chips off and prevents galling) ... but not for the first couple of threads  due to the tap.....

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Hi thanks for the info guys.

 I don't want to pull the mount apart so I can only attack the problem from one side. can you confirm that the helicoil size thread I need is the M10 This will fit the bolt I have ?

Also because of the tightness of these bolts, and the fact it will have to be moved a lot. Will this helicoil be up to the job, Ive read that

If it's being used in a situation where the bolt is going to be moved a lot you are better off thread locking the helicoil into the hole. 
How do I do that. mis it possible it will be needed.
I take it the tang and swarf wont be a problem living inside the mount, as I don't want to break the seal and pull the mount apart.
The only problem I could think about the tang and swarf if if they got anywhere near trhe central bolt hole ? Any ideas.

Cheers again, I don't normally do things like this, so I am really pretty much a workshop dummy 

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Peter Drew

Peter Drew

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With both latitude adjuster bolts removed try and pivot the head, if you can't then the pivot is too tight and you may end up with similar problems in the future. If mine stripped I would repair it with an external steel plate suitably tapped at probably a better angle for my latitude adjustment. The original hole would be drilled out for clearance. :smiley:

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si@nite

si@nite

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Hi Neil.

Im afraid ive never used Helicoils so cannot advise you on the subject, initially the problem i had was the rear lat bolt slipping, i decided to beef up the bolt to a M12x 100mm while it was stripped down but it can be done in situ, its fairly easy to tap out following the correct angle, now it holds really solid even adjusting with full rig on.

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Hi Neil.

Im afraid ive never used Helicoils so cannot advise you on the subject, initially the problem i had was the rear lat bolt slipping, i decided to beef up the bolt to a M12x 100mm while it was stripped down but it can be done in situ, its fairly easy to tap out following the correct angle, now it holds really solid even adjusting with full rig on.

Thanks Guys  cheers again

The mount is not tight. it was loosened.

its just the bolt slipping is the problem. its all helpful info

Hi Simon  I wonder if the larger bolt would hit the Gunner mod at the same angle. Any ideas if the lager bolt could cause a problem with the  gunner Mod that's already been done ?

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si@nite

si@nite

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Thanks Guys  cheers again

The mount is not tight. it was loosened.

its just the bolt slipping is the problem. its all helpful info

Hi Simon  I wonder if the larger bolt would hit the Gunner mod at the same angle. Any ideas if the lager bolt could cause a problem with the  gunner Mod that's already been done ?

Hi Neil it looks like it would be a problem fitting the larger bolt as it looks like the mod on your mount is recessed & designed to except m10 only, you can see what i mean in the image so your concerns seem valid!

It looks like the helicoil route seems your best & easest option without taking off the mount head Neil!

post-16599-0-23098400-1416987716_thumb.j

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Hi Neil it looks like it would be a problem fitting the larger bolt as it looks like the mod on your mount is recessed & designed to except m10 only, you can see what i mean in the image so your concerns seem valid!

It looks like the helicoil route seems your best & easest option without taking off the mount head Neil!

Cheers Simon that's what I thought.

I just need to find out if the helicoil will be up to the job of moving the bolt around a lot. some seem to suggest they can be locked in place better. but I am not sure how. I have seen someone glue it before he screwed it in. No doubt with some kind of resin or locktight glue Also I think the angle should be a concern. I am not sure I should do this myself ?

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Ibbo!

Ibbo!

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I helicoiled my 6 the other week for the same reason I also popped the new bolt in the lathe and profiled the end

i also put on the Gunnar mod at the same time

I am glad to report it is much smoother to adjust and I am happy with the mods

Steve

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Helicoil kits come with a loctite that secures the coil in place though I've never used the loctite and I've been using helicoils for over 40 years.

Sometimes on very high torque fastenings.

Ok that sounds promising, This shouldn't give me any problem  with the helicoil moving once done then

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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I helicoiled my 6 the other week for the same reason I also pooped the new bolt in the lathe and profiled the end

i also put on the Gunnar mod at the same time

I am glad to report it is much smoother to adjust and I am happy with the mods

Steve

Was it just the standard helicoil I showed here ibbo. Did you use any glue on it before screwing in ?

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Ok Ibbo  thanks again,  I will try and order this kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-Helicoil-Thread-Repair-Kit-M10-x-1-25-x-13-5mm-/310831825508

The only problem is it doesn't have any kind of tapping attachment handle in the kit. To screw the tap in,  i could use pliers but I want to get the tap straight.  Does anyone know of a link where I could get a cheap tapping attachment holder ? that would fit the tapping tool in this kit ?

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Looking on Amazon this one looks quite good as it seems to at least give me a little clearance from the polar scope, as I tap. Does anyone think I should clear the polar scope with this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sliding-Shape-Handle-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B007Q941MG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417159702&sr=8-2&keywords=adjustable+tapping+tool

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Having looked at it with a torch

One thing I really don't understand is I have just tried to put the bolt back in, it is not bent, but it is not going inside the gunner recess, it seems to be siting on top of it. this can not be correct surely. When the bolt is put in do you have to fully extend the mount, say up to 70 degrees,  does the angle change so the bolt goes inside the gunner recess ? only at 70 degrees tilt

How can I be sure it is inside the recessed hole

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neil phillips

neil phillips

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Hi again Neil move the mount head to match the angle of the bolt, you can do this by inserting a smaller bolt say m8 just to line it up then note & mark the angle!

Hi Simon ok ill try that and see what happens. It looks to me like it hasn't been inside the gunner for some period as I can see the metal mark where it was sitting.

Ill try your suggestion. Once it is inside the gunner I assume I can back off the mount to a point where I can see through the mount hole. that it is inside. The only problem is its at about 30 degrees, before the mount hole opens up enough to be able to see the bolt and gunner recess hole

Infact using a m 8 bolt the play would be so large, that telling the angle of the mount from it might be difficult to be certain Simon

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