Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

Amp glow with Atik 11000


Mark72

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I asked Olly already but wonder if more help can be found.

I bought used Atik camera which had its electronics replaced recently.

All  frames show brightening in the top which seems to be amp glow at I was told. this artefact does not get calibrated away. The link below shows  5 min Ligh for Ha and Red and Dark and Bias

Also 10 hours with NGC 281 with the glow in all its artificial glory.  What can be done about this. Is it  expected behavior?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_84z2MryxRreEFDcGVoX3BIblU/view?usp=sharing

Thanks!

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is truly nasty, the electrics must have been replaced by the manufacturer? I can't believe that Atik let any camera leave them knowing that it produced this on the image. I would contact them and get the camera returned to them for repair. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are several members here with Atik 11000 cameras and this is the only time I've read of amp glow in one of them.  I too am sure you have a faulty camera.  Atik just don't produce rubbish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This glow shows with LRGB as well,  we tried to remove camera and do darks but it was still there, even with 30 seconds already

The only way to change heater settings is with Atik  Config, so I changed from full (255) to zero.  The glow was still there.

Atik asked to send camera back for repairs in the meanwhile. 

Apparently I have bad luck with Atik cameras, the second one with problems.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just an update if somebody is wondering. Turned out the was wrong power supply provided with the camera.

After it was replaced the glow disappeared. I still would not be surprised if it gets back.

The camera is a bit hard to run in observatory, especially darks are difficult to get without shutter.

Ha is not very good but still some data can be collected like in this image:

http://www.astrobin.com/141219/

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm glad you found a solution, Mark.

I don't try to take darks in the observatory. It is much better to take them with the metal chip cover screwed on, so the camera needs to be off the scope. This isn't an issue, though, because you make a library at a given temperature (I use -20) and then image at that temperature. Atik supply a high quality cover for just this reason.

In fact I don't use darks at all with the 11000s here. I make a master dark out of a set of 30 min subs, clip 2000 ADU off the black point and save this as a Defect Map. I also make a master bias. I stack in Astro Art and put the Bias into the Darks box and the Defect Map in the software's Defect Map box. I run the hot pixel filter aggressively at 60% for singles and groups of pixels and the column repairs as needed for each camera. (One is very old and has literally thousands of hours logged). I like this system because it gives very clean stacks and you don't need to worry about exposure times. This will calibrate any sub length you like without being altered. A great time saver and results are very clean, cleaner than I used to get with darks. It isn't unusual for me to have no bad pixels at all to clean at the end despite the size of the sensor.

Once you've used a full frame chip it is hard to think of going back to a smaller one. Mind you, I've been impressed by two data sets I've processed here from visiting QSI 8300s... One might be for sale. Uh-Oh!!!

Olly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.