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Sub length and ISO settings for moon, and also star trails?


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I'm hoping to get a photo of the moon tonight, weather permitting. It's only going to be my 1100D on my unpowered HEQ5 mount. So could anyone recommend sub lengths (I'm guessing not very long!), and an ISO setting? I believe it's roughly a half moon at the moment.

Also, as I'm still unpowered for now, I may have a bash at star trails at some point. Would there be a recommended sub length for decent trails, and a recommended ISO?

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For the moon, it's pretty bright... ISO 100, and probably somewhere around 1/50s (depending on your scope). Use that as a start point, check your histogram on your camera and adjust as needed. Don't worry about the shutter speed being considered lower than would be sensible, even at 1200mm, 1/10s is plenty fast enough to avoid the moon blurring due to motion, as long as the scope is firmly mounted.

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take lots and lots of them with only small gaps between, then you can combine them with a program like Starstax or Startrails.  It applies a lighten merge, which makes a trail out of the stars as they move.

If you hold the shutter open for 10 minutes or so, you will get trails too, but it's likely to get lost in sky fog or light pollution and will be far less appealing.

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For startrails, I use 30s, ISO 800, St the camera to continuous shooting, and with a wired shutter release mock it to trigger the shutter immediately. Keep going until you run out of space on the card, your battery runs out, clouds stop play, or you've had enough

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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Got a shot of the moon in the end. Obviously quite small with it just being the camera on the mount, but still detail than the blurry handheld shot from a file ago. The pain is guessing whether it's in focus, and only finding out afterwards if review mode!

post-35725-0-19464200-1412342732_thumb.j

post-35725-0-92105700-1412342918.jpg

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With the moon being so bright just now try a cheat.

Camera dial to landscape mode now focus on moon now move the lens switch to manual focus now turn the camera dial to m mode and set you iso, aperature etc.

Worth a try that might get what you want, even using auto focus more then once locked switch over to manual focus on lens. Use the lens switch and modes to work for you.

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Thanks I'll note those tips for next time.

I'm on the verge of buying the 200P Skyliner Dob with a 2x Barlow to do some visual, and then buying the ED80 Pro Outfit for imaging on my HEQ5 later on.

My question is, would it be possible to take images of the moon using the Dob (assuming I bought a camera adapter)? I know that generally speaking you need a tracking mount for imaging, but with the moon only needing such a short sub, would it be possible?

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Yes, certainly possible. Boosting the ISO and shortening the exposure may help with avoiding any blurring from movement. If you want to take multiple frames probably the best way is to let the Moon drift across the field of view. PIPP can be used to pre-align the frames, which makes stacking with Registax go more smoothly.

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I'm guessing that an image of the moon through a 200P would only cover part of the surface, so I wonder if it would be possible to photograph different areas and manually try to create a mosaic? I'm guessing it would be tricky without tracking etc, but I would have thought that the final image could be very impressive if it was achievable.

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I'm guessing that an image of the moon through a 200P would only cover part of the surface, so I wonder if it would be possible to photograph different areas and manually try to create a mosaic?

It would probably fit in if you use your 1100D, the chip is big compared to a webcam giving a larger field of view. If not I've had some success using Microsoft ICE (free software) to stitch together mosaics.

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Did you try again with what you have to image the Moon?

Blur should not be an issue once focus is right as the Moon is so bright I used ISO 100 and something like 1/250 shutter speed. So on a tripod that is no blur so any blur is focus or knocked the tripod or did not use a remote shutter release though could use the 10 second timer delay. The timer can be set to take 10 images as well from one shutter press.

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Ok, assuming I can get Friday off work I'm definitely going to buy the 200P Dob, 2x Barlow and t-ring adaptor (for future moon images). I've also ordered "Turn Left at Orion". Is there anything else I should be buying? Maybe a collimation tool? In which case, which one(s)?

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