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Bench drill needed


tekkydave

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Holy cow!  I thought my father-in-law was bad.

James

this stems from the days when i had a Transit van, that was like a mobile workshop, when the van went all its contents had to be accommodated, the lost space has never really come back.......

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I use some water-based cutting fluid with the lathe.  I keep the mixed stuff in a "swan neck" plastic squeezy bottle that I got from ebay which makes it easy to squirt onto the workpiece without getting it everywhere.

James

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The D19 arrived today. I've been reading the manual and it looks pretty straightforward. The delivery guy had to borrow our wheelbarrow to get it from his van into the garage :grin:

I have to set up my workbench now and get it assembled and set up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started to clear some space in the garage today for the workbench to put the D19 on. Didn't realise how much junk we had. I can see a trip to the tip coming on. Unfortunately I was interrupted by a work call so I'll carry on tomorrow.

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The beast is finally installed. I didn't really appreciate how heavy the headstock was going to be and you need to lift it and drop it down over the end of the column. I took the motor off which roughly halved the weight making it easier to lift. I still needed to stand on the bench and lift it that way. The motor was then re-attached with the help of my wife who put the bolts back while I held the motor in place.

post-28249-0-54209600-1411398772_thumb.ppost-28249-0-00064800-1411398791_thumb.p

I still need to bolt it down to the bench but everything seems to work as expected. I have decided to start the pier plates again from scratch but using aluminium instead of steel.

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Once you get it where you want it, get some coach screws and screw it down, you also need a piece of flat timber to protect the bed...it looks a sturdy bit of kit.....

It is well sturdy! It's also quite loud when running. Can you explain what you mean when you say "protect the bed with a piece of flat timber".

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It should quieten a bit once bolted down.  You can also get away with running it with the belt on the slack side to help.  The other thing to consider is that your bench top will act like a big drum!  You may find screwing some hefty lumps of wood underneath it will help to deaden it a bit.

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It should quieten a bit once bolted down.  You can also get away with running it with the belt on the slack side to help.  The other thing to consider is that your bench top will act like a big drum!  You may find screwing some hefty lumps of wood underneath it will help to deaden it a bit.

Makes sense. Probably not the best construction method but cheap.

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It is well sturdy! It's also quite loud when running. Can you explain what you mean when you say "protect the bed with a piece of flat timber".

A piece of flat time placed under the work you are drill into or through will stop the bed getting pit-holes ect.....

DSC_9587.jpg

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The 200mm x 200mm x 10mm Aluminium plates I ordered to make my pier plates have arrived. Looks like there will be some drilling going on in the tekkydave workshop this weekend.

Oh and some M12 bolts to secure the drill to the bench - very important.

I have also ordered some of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-drill-clamps to make securing the workpiece easier and also some safety specs to go over my glasses.

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attachicon.gifd19_installed1.png

 

This looks similar to mine (mines a cheap Titan thing). It's good to have bolts for the vice too - the nut slides along the slots on the base plate.

I need to set the chuck again as it's not on 100% straight so it's not a smooth drop. However I've just got myself a 107mm masonry coring bit and a new SDS hand drill for it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

FINALLY!!! I have managed to drill the plates for my pier. It took a couple of hours. I was very careful, drilling 3mm, 7mm, 10mm then 13mm holes. Ali will take fairly high drill speeds so I started at 1820rpm for the 3mm and 7mm then dropped to 1260 for the 10mm and 13mm holes. Didn't have any cutting fluid so applied a few drops of 3-in-1 before each drilling.

post-28249-0-06046700-1412444651_thumb.p

The plate on the right will bolt to the top of the wooden pier via four M12 coach bolts in the centre 4 holes. The 2 plates will be connected using M12 studding via the four outer holes.

Next job is to work out a way of attaching the mount to the top plate.

The story of my Obsy build which is the reason for needing the drill in the first place is here http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/220310-tekkydave-low-cost-obsy-build/

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Well done to get that job done.  Just one suggestion - round off the corners of the plates, two reasons: First they will hurt if you bump into them in the dark! and secondly if you have any trailing wires they will slide around smooth corners much more easily.

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Well done to get that job done.  Just one suggestion - round off the corners of the plates, two reasons: First they will hurt if you bump into them in the dark! and secondly if you have any trailing wires they will slide around smooth corners much more easily.

Good suggestion. I still have some holes to drill depending on how I decide to attach the scope mount. Then I'll finish it off and smooth off any sharp edges and give it a coat of hammerite for protection.

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