Anyway to rid images with vane lines?

[Bathurst]

Hi all, see Sig for my kit, basically getting the glare from the spider vanes around any planets I try to capture. Is there anyway to get rid of them so I get just the planet!? Highly frustrating!

Excuse the camera phone picture!

[Bathurst]

[Leveye]

You can replace the 4 vane with a curved 3 vane to eliminate some of the diffraction. 1800 destiny makes them.

[mitchelln]

I think you have it way too overexposed. Try a much faster shutter speed or lower ISO. The spikes should not show up then.

[Bathurst]

I think you have it way too overexposed. Try a much faster shutter speed or lower ISO. The spikes should not show up then.

I get this on all settings, even low ISO ok not as bad (that's ISO800) but it's still there

You can replace the 4 vane with a curved 3 vane to eliminate some of the diffraction. 1800 destiny makes them.

ok thanks I'll check them out

[lensman57]

IMAG0281.jpg

That is the trade mark of a Newtonian scope, some people love it others hate it. The diffractions are caused primarily by the secondary mirror spider vanes and the primary mirror retaining clips, although these manifest themselves as a sort of secondary spikes around the core of the star ( make it look square rather than round  if the collimation was  spot on ) . The only way to get rid of them is to ditch the Newt and buy an Apo, rather easier said than done and very expensive. SCTs do not suffer from this but they do have a very two dimensional look to the stars.

A.G

[Bathurst]

That is the trade mark of a Newtonian scope, some people love it others hate it. The diffractions are caused primarily by the secondary mirror spider vanes and the primary mirror retaining clips, although these manifest themselves as a sort of secondary spikes around the core of the star ( make it look square rather than round  if the collimation was  spot on ) . The only way to get rid of them is to ditch the Newt and buy an Apo, rather easier said than done and very expensive. SCTs do not suffer from this but they do have a very two dimensional look to the stars.

A.G

so essentially if I want to photograph Planets I'm screwed then?! that's ok as I bought the scope primarily for viewing but got lent the camera so thought I'd give it a whirl, might try some DSOs if I'm lucky enough to see any with this set up!

Thanks all for the help

[Tinker1947]

You could get a web cam......

[Kirscovitch]

I have imaged the moon and planets with my DSLR on my 6" newt and don't have the vanes show up.

This is Jupiter I  took a few weeks ago.

Sounds like an exposure issue.

[mitchelln]

If you can't see the bands on Jupiter or you just see a bright yellowish ball like in the picture in your post, then you are overexposing and will get spikes. You should only see them on shots of bright stars.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

[mitchelln]

How did you attach the camera to the scope by the way?

[lensman57]

so essentially if I want to photograph Planets I'm screwed then?! that's ok as I bought the scope primarily for viewing but got lent the camera so thought I'd give it a whirl, might try some DSOs if I'm lucky enough to see any with this set up!

Thanks all for the help

No you will  be fine, the diffraction happens when  imaging a point source light such as a star, it does not appear with targets that resolve as disc such as the Moon, Jupiter or Mars. You should also be fine wtht the Jovian Moons as these actually do form a small disc, so long as your focusis spot on.

A.G

[Bathurst]

How did you attach the camera to the scope by the way?

Barlow in first then Camera into that, managed decent shots of the Moon already and some Orions Nebula so I know it works as expected.

If you can't see the bands on Jupiter or you just see a bright yellowish ball like in the picture in your post, then you are overexposing and will get spikes. You should only see them on shots of bright stars.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

yeah it's tough to get the focus right for starters so ordered a Bahkinov Filter as I've read those help loads with Cemra focusing, I tried all sorts of ISO settings and stuff on the camera but no doubt need more time to find the optimum setting (still learning the camera to a degree too!)

You could get a web cam......

....if I had the money

[Tinker1947]

....if I had the money

Something like this will get you going.......

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Webcam-Camera-MegaPixel-Built-Microphone/dp/B005TCT6T0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397769062&sr=8-4&keywords=web+cam

take the lens off, break the LED's, stick a adapter on so it will fit in the Barlow, use Sharpcap software.....

My webcam cost less than a fiver, hacked it about a bit.....

does this....

[Bathurst]

Wow that's pretty damn awesome & cheap! I did research Webcams a while back but everyone kept linking to £50+ ones hence the "money" line! Only problem is I dont have a laptop...and I know for a fact they're pricey!

[Wetsparks]

You can replace the 4 vane with a curved 3 vane to eliminate some of the diffraction. 1800 destiny makes them.

Interesting, know of anywhere in the UK that sells them or, does Destiny ship to UK?

TIA.

[Bathurst]

I have imaged the moon and planets with my DSLR on my 6" newt and don't have the vanes show up.

<snip>

Sounds like an exposure issue.

Hi again all, still having problems with overexposure. No matter what length of sub I take (1sec to 30sec) I get the Vanes and just a white blob of Jupiter, I'm beginning to wonder whether my camera settings are proper for the job.

One thing I have noticed is that I cant change the Aperture when in Manual mode, the cameras manual shows you how dto do it but it simply does'nt work! Anyway just wondering if anyone has a similar camera and can share their Menu/Setup options please, beginning to think that perhaps I need a Filter of some kind?

thanks

[DoctorD]

Hi

For planets you will be looking at fractions of a second exposure, even at low ISO so even at 1 second you are over exposing.

You will not be able to adjust the aperture as your scope in in effect your lens and has no aperture control - unless you are using it a-focally and have a lens on the camera as well.

To be honest a DSLR is not the best camera to capture planets -you will end up cropping down to similar resolutions as web cams - you need to capture video of the planet then use a stacking program such as registax to select the best frames and stack them to bring out the detail.

HTH

Paul

[Cornelius Varley]

You need to shoot a lot faster than 1 sec to avoid overexposure.

[Bathurst]

Hi

For planets you will be looking at fractions of a second exposure, even at low ISO so even at 1 second you are over exposing.

You will not be able to adjust the aperture as your scope in in effect your lens and has no aperture control - unless you are using it a-focally and have a lens on the camera as well.

To be honest a DSLR is not the best camera to capture planets -you will end up cropping down to similar resolutions as web cams - you need to capture video of the planet then use a stacking program such as registax to select the best frames and stack them to bring out the detail.

HTH

Paul

Brilliant thanks for the explanation, I've therefore been misinformed elsewhere as it was suggested I take 10second subs and stack them even though I saw the vanes at lower subs. I'll try with much reduced exposure times then and maybe try some DSOs as well, I know it's not the best camera but I got it for free and I cant afford anything else!

Thanks again

[mitchelln]

No wonder you are getting spikes!

For Jupiter I typically shoot video at ISO800 with 1/100 sec shutter @1920x1080 30fps with my Canon 7D. I get results like below.

[mitchelln]

Seeing conditions was the limiting factor with these rather than the camera setup.

Sorry for two posts. Tapatalk 4 messing about.

[Bathurst]

blimey they're great pics, I'm not expecting anything like that! Will try 1/100 tonight, how many subs did you take?

[mitchelln]

You really need to capture video rather than single shots. I usually go for around 3000 frames. Any more than that doesn't seem to gain any improvement for me.

However your A350 doesn't do video, so single shots it is! I guess you could try burst mode and then stack the frames. If your camera has a mirror lockup facility then use that to reduce vibration caused by the mirror.

[Bathurst]

You really need to capture video rather than single shots. I usually go for around 3000 frames. Any more than that doesn't seem to gain any improvement for me.

However your A350 doesn't do video, so single shots it is! I guess you could try burst mode and then stack the frames. If your camera has a mirror lockup facility then use that to reduce vibration caused by the mirror.

yeah the only thing holding me back from Video is a Laptop to go with a webcam, might ask Santa nicely!

Good idea about Burst mode I'll keep that in mind next time, thanks.