Baader Mark V's eyepieces.

[cyborg421]

For those of you lucky enough to own some Baader Mark V's. What eyepieces do you have and/or recommend?

Simon

[alanjgreen]

For me, the point of buying the mark v was to get the larger prism, therefore the best eyepieces to use will be those that make use of the full 27mm prism.

I use them on 2 scopes; 11inch SCT & Lunt LS60

For the SCT, I chose 2 x Panoptic 24mm as they use the full 27mm and give the widest view possible in the mark v binoviewer. Another option I considered was the TV 32mm plossl but I decided on the panoptics instead due to the same FOV size. I also have a pair of 17.3mm delos for the times I want to go in closer. I add the 1.7 glass path corrector as a "barlow" for globulars and mars.

For the Lunt LS60, I use a pair of 19mm panoptics with the 1.7 glass path corrector. The sun comes in at a good size and the detail is great!

* worth noting that I changed the standard lunt focuser for a "baader NT" with 19mm spacer - The standard focuser is too flimsy to take the weight of the mark v's

[cyborg421]

Thanks Alan,

I have a 10" Dob and an APM 100/800 frac if that helps.

This may be an idiotic question but I'll ask anyway. Do you get a similar size view using the Binoviewers and a pair of 19mm eyepieces as you do with a single 19mm eyepiece? The reason I ask is I had a look through a pair of binoviewers at an outreach event using 20mm eyepieces and the view of Jupiter I had seemed very close i.e something i would expect from a much higher mag eyepiece.. I don't know what scope the binoviewer was in.

Thanks 

Simon

[alanjgreen]

Binoviewers increase the focal length of SCTs which gives the effect of increasing the magnification. In my CPC1100 I definately see the same effect as you mention.

I went for the Mark Vs as they offer a reasonably short light path and I reckon it turns my 17.3 mm into a 14mm and the 24mm into 20mm (ish)

I intend to add a zeiss prism T2 diagonal which will get me back 60mm light path and I should see the effects above "halved" or thats what I am hoping!

I do not think focal length is affected if you have a refractor - I do not know what the impact is in a newtonian?

However, it is a good reason to go for longer focal length eyepieces.

Alan

[Space Dragon]

As Alan says, the mag will be increased using an SCT, it will not be increased in a refractor IF you can reach focus without a barlow or OCS, which is rarely the case.

And with a Newt, the same applies, an OCS of around x1.7 is usually needed to reach focus, either that, or you'd have to shorten any truss tubes or move the mirror up the tube to reach focus native, you then may have to put in a larger secondary to avoid cutting into the modified light cone, meaning a larger obstruction.

Cutting the tube down on a refractor is also an option but I doubt you'd want to cut your APM and it may compromise focus in mono after shortening.

The Baader T2 prism diagonal is your best chance of reaching focus native or with a x1.25 GPC with the APM, it works with the Mark V and the Maxbright or any bino with a T2 thread or adaption, the Televue does as well. It has a light path of only 38mm.

I use this with a 152mm f5.9 refractor and 24mm Pans for a FOV just under 2º, it's the widest field I could easily find using binos.

It works native, no barlow/OCS but with only 5mm of focus to spare, it wouldn't work with a normal diagonal.

Baader also do a Newtonian OCS which is recommended with a Dob, if you download the Baader Maxbright instructions there's a lot of info there.

CN is also a good resource for binos, although it's going offline for a few days for a re-vamp.

Binos are complicated but when you  get them right .....they're great.

[cyborg421]

Thank you both that is very useful.

I do know that my APM has enough back focus for the binoviewers.

OCS is optical compensation system?

Simon

[Space Dragon]

That's a bonus that your APM can reach focus you should get some nice wide views.

Optical corrector system, another term for a Barlow, although they also can correct CA sometimes caused by the prisms in binos when used with faster refractors.

Sorry, you didn't make it clear if you already own a MarkV or are thinking of getting one, not quite sure which stage you're at.

[cyborg421]

I am looking to purchase one . I just wanted to make sure I bought the appropriate bits and pieces when I do. I am looking to start off with a couple of eyepieces and wanted to make the best choice. At the moment I have a 6 and 8mm Delos, 11mm Nagler , a 13mm Ethos and a 16mm Radian in 1.25". My other eyepieces are 2". I don't think pairing any of these except for the 11mm Nagler would be appropriate. Are all 11mm Nagler the same?

Simon

[Space Dragon]

One thing I've noticed is a 68 degree field is really enough for binos, in that if you swivel your eyes to take in the edges, you'll get blackouts sooner than you would in mono mode.

Of course with an 82 or 100 you'll have that peripheral vista but you'll still get the immersive effect with 68 or even 50.

Of course if you already have some 82 or 100 you want to double up on that may be cheaper than buying new dedicated pairs for bino.

It's also better to Barlow for high powers rather than go to short focal length eps, that reduces the effect of any misalignment of the bino prisms.

The 24mm. Pans are great for binos, with their tapered top, they give a bit of nose clearance and are very comfortable to use.

The ES 24s are worth thinking about but my IPD is 61mm and they would've been a bit tight for me.

Another option is the maxvision, you can de- cloak them for a much slimmer profile.

You may be better barlowing some 24mms for 12mm and 16/14mm for 8/7mm.

[Space Dragon]

By the way, if you're considering spending that much on binos another one to consider is the Denk Binotron with power switch, in effect giving you 3 ep pairs.

There are variations within this set up as well, so a look on the Denk website or a chat with Russ will put you on the right track.

But from the user reports I've read, it is a great bit of kit.

If you're not sure you'll get on with binoviewing, it may be wise to start with an entry level pair, WO or Maxbrights to see if it's for you.

Those top end units cost more than a lot of scopes and I'd say you want to be sure of owning one before forking out.

[Space Hopper]

Hi Simon

Just as a point, i can reach focus WITHOUT using any GPC on my refractor (WO FLT132) with Maxbright / Zeiss T2 prism .

I also have a 50mm extender on the Feathertouch. You may be ok with your APM.

The Mk V & 24 Pan route would be amazing, offering pretty much the widest bino field of view you could get.

But.....at a cost. The Pans will add on another £500 or so of course.

As said, have a good look at the Denk Binotron. The powerswitch makes so much sense. You'd then be fine with just one (maybe two) pairs of eyepieces.

But not the 24 Pans. Go with the D21's from Denk. They are perfectly matched to work optimally with the Denks. I believe they actually measure 21.6 mm

They have rave reviews over in the US

By the way i'm not an expert here, far from it. I've only had my Maxbright a year, and my N13's only two months.

But i just love the views that i'm getting. The moon especially has been a revelation.

For more on Denkmeier check out the bino forum over on Cloudy Nights. One chap in particular, (Eddgie) is the main man, and very helpful.

I've leaned everything i've learned re bino-viewing from him pretty much.

Myself ? I'd love to 'upgrade' to the Denk Binotron system, but funds are way too tight at the moment.

Firstly i'm looking at one of their powerswitch diagonals, the R1 or R2 

I think they will convert my existing WO diagonal for me too which i'm hoping to do.

Just need to get in touch with them and save up a bit 

[cyborg421]

Thanks for that. I have had a good look at the Denkmeier site and to be frank however good the Denks are the website is a mess and so confusing. TBH it's that and the import fees/returning stuff if necessary issues that have kind of put me off.

Simon

[Space Hopper]

That is a worry, yes.  But the £ / $ exchange rate is good at present.

I'll see how things go with the diagonal first to gauge them.  And yes, the website is as you say. I agree 100%

Its only New York though. I've even though about a trip there to see them in person....

[Space Dragon]

True, it's mad how they can get a product so right and a website so wrong.

[cyborg421]

LOL. True that.

[F15Rules]

Hi Simon,

I know this is an old thread but just wondered if you went for the MK V's in the end?

I'm using a Maxbright now and love it...just too few chances to use it as yet, lousy UK skies etc.

Would be interested to hear how you are getting on. I'm still very much learning about my bv, but when it's sorted just right, the views are superb.

I took the plunge and had my D&G USA F15 refractor tube cut down to give more in focus..I intended to have the tube reconstructed anyway (its about 24 years old), so it's now had new ray traced baffles, protostar flocking, 130mm cut off the tube and full strip down and respray. Oh, and new holes drilled for finders and rear mounting plate which I had made to accommodate a new Moonlite focuser. 

It's now easy to get "native" magnifications (ie a 25mm pair gives the same magnification as a cyclops viewing single ep), so no barlow or OCS needed. For cyclops viewing I have bought twin William Optics 50mm extension tubes: these have compression rings and twin retaining screws for maximum security. A Tele Vue 2" Everbright diagonal (which has no screw in nosepiece which can unscrew with excess weight) provides a very stable host for the binoviewers and eyepieces..

All in all, I feel I now have all viewing options covered..

regards,

Dave

[denis0007dl]

For me, the point of buying the mark v was to get the larger prism, therefore the best eyepieces to use will be those that make use of the full 27mm prism.

I use them on 2 scopes; 11inch SCT & Lunt LS60

For the SCT, I chose 2 x Panoptic 24mm as they use the full 27mm and give the widest view possible in the mark v binoviewer. Another option I considered was the TV 32mm plossl but I decided on the panoptics instead due to the same FOV size. I also have a pair of 17.3mm delos for the times I want to go in closer. I add the 1.7 glass path corrector as a "barlow" for globulars and mars.

For the Lunt LS60, I use a pair of 19mm panoptics with the 1.7 glass path corrector. The sun comes in at a good size and the detail is great!

* worth noting that I changed the standard lunt focuser for a "baader NT" with 19mm spacer - The standard focuser is too flimsy to take the weight of the mark v's

Actually, Mark V have 26mm Clear Aperture on right eyepece side, and 28mm Clear Aperture on left eyepiece sde AND scope side!

26mm Clear Aperture on right eyepece side cause very little fuzzy corners on lets say Panoptics 24mm or ES 24mm eyepieces, which is hardly detectable becasue field stop of 26mm is in approx middle of binobody!

I like more ES 24mm 68 deg eyepieces than Panoptics 24mm (little brighter image on ES eyepieces, and bigger eye releaf on ES eyepieces-more comfortable, AND, ES are waterproof)!

One of favorite eyepieces, and unique, are 28mm RKEs!

Of course, if you have money for 25mm Carl Zeiss orthos, or Leica 25mm orthos, this is unbeatable!

To get higher magnifications, I recommend 2" Powermates (no any other lower focal lenght eyepieces because of natural error of every beamsplitter which error increase due low focal lenght eyepieces)!

I do many tests with Baader GPCs, Baader Flourite 3-8x barlow, AP BARADV, Zeiss 2x barlow, TMB barlow, and noone cant beat Powermates!  TESTED many times!

So, you get one favorte pair of long focal lenght eyepieces, or max two pairs, and Powermates in 2" format!

END OF STORY

Hope this helps!