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What after removing the IR filter? Canon 350D


pixueto

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You will also lose the ability to use Lenses on the 350D unless you have a lens that can go pass infinity, else you are stuck at just before infinity and can not nail the focus (This is Lens use only)

you can re-shim the camera to compensate for this. The important thing here is to make sure the optical train remains perpendicular as calibrated from factory  so you must remove shims with the same thickness in all 3 assembly points; typically about 0.33mm. It is actually easier done than explained.

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Can I just ask?

If its advisable not to focus through the viewfinder as it will be different to what is on the sensor and the 350d has no live view, what is the best way to focus then?

As I'm unable to sell my 350d, I'm going to modify it myself and just use my 450d for everyday use.

Anthony, you may be better off the other way round; using your unmodified 350D for daylight photography. The 450D is a much easier camera to modify and it has live view.

Just a thought

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This is a copy/paste sent to me by the company thats modded my 600D, i took the cheap option......

If you want to use the camera for occasional daylight photography, please use auto white balance and setk (WB SHIFT/BKT ) to B9G9 in the camera's menu. I have increased slightly those values so it will cover most typical daytime light conditions. When you want to use the camera for astrophotography, you can set the parameter backt to B0G0 and WB to daylight.
It is also advised to use the camera in AV mode for daylight use (as 90% of photographers do). Please notice that any other white balance setting: daylight, tungsten, etc will produce pictures with the typical tinge of astromodified cameras.
This white balance correction works well in daylight photography. If you want to use the flash, you will have to call it via the external flash button in the camera. Otherwise, the camera will ignore your selection of white balance to AWB and it will change automatically the setting.
There is a situation where the auto-correction does not work well, though. This is during non-astronomical photography at night in artificial tungsten illumination. For those situations, it is advised that a custom white balance is taken. The same white balance can always be used under those circumstances. 
The LP1 anti-aliasing filter (AAF) in your camera has been retained. Please remember to keep the setting 'autoclean' to 'disable' when using it for astrophotography in order to avoid the camera messing with your flat frames 
( the optical train changes slightly when the AA filter shakes in order to clean the camera, thus voiding your flat frames for the night).
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I never had any problems with this so called amp glow and noise levels are not really that much of a problem if you take enough subs to reduce it and use a good noise removal software in the processing stages. I don't need live view as I just slew to my chosen star and focus with my bahtinov mask using back yard eos you can loop the image and focus section and it will continue to take short pics that you can focus with very accurately.

I saw one going for 59.00 quid on ebay yesterday body only and thought to myself for 59.00 quid and 2 hours work removing the red filter you have yourself a most excellent camera for astrophotography,lots of people are scared of taking that red filter out but if I can do it any one can I am so rubbish at soldering and electrical stuff belive me really rubbish.

I am sure that as the years roll buy other eos models will take its place but this little camera is a wonderful tool for astrophotography for the price if your on a budget. As Gina said the live view models might be a more favoured choice these days but the 350D has earned its place and reputation as a great dslr for astrophotography in my books.

Here is another example of what this camera can do.. not bad for 59.00 quid I would say.

Lagoon%252520and%252520Trifid%252520wide

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